Rappelling Gear

Rappelling Gear

If a climb might require rappelling, carry the appropriate rappel equipment even if you expect to walk off. Rappelling gear should allow you to safely descend a single or double strand of rope, establish a friction-hitch backup, and manage the rope and anchor connections.

Basic Rappel Equipment Checklist

• ATC-Guide or Petzl Reverso

• 1 locking carabiner for rappel device

• 1 smooth HMS locking carabiner for rope

• Rappelling gloves

• 1 Prusik loop or Sterling HollowBlock

• 1 locking carabiner for friction hitch

• Personal anchor system or appropriate tether

• Headlamp 

Gear

Rappel / Belay Device

• ATC-Guide or Petzl Reverso

  • Excellent all-around devices for trad climbing, multipitch routes, and rappelling

  • Accept single or double ropes, making them particularly versatile for multipitch climbing and rappels

  • Both offer guide mode for belaying a second directly from an anchor

  • Allow rappelling on two strands or a single strand, depending on the rope and device configuration

  • A familiar device that can serve as both your primary belay device and rappel device

Locking Carabiners

Carry appropriately sized locking carabiners for attaching the rappel device and managing the rope.

• 1 Locking Carabiner for Rappel Device

  • Connects the ATC-Guide or Reverso to your harness belay loop

  • Use a locking carabiner compatible with the device and harness

  • Ensure the carabiner is properly oriented and locked before loading

• 1 Smooth HMS Locking Carabiner for Rope

  • Used with the ATC/Reverso to manage the rope

  • A smooth, rounded top provides a good rope-bearing surface and reduces unnecessary friction and wear

  • HMS (pear-shaped) carabiners are versatile and accommodate:

    • Munter hitches

    • Belay devices

    • Multiple clove hitches

    • Multiple strands at an anchor master point

• Recommended Examples:

  • Petzl Attache Screw-Lock

    • Lightweight, compact HMS carabiner

    • Wide pear-shaped profile accommodates Munter hitches and multiple clove hitches

    • Screw-lock mechanism is straightforward and easy to inspect

    • Excellent general-purpose choice

  • Metolius Rig Auto Lock

    • Triple-action autolocking mechanism

    • Helps reduce the possibility of accidental gate opening

    • Particularly useful when a carabiner may be exposed to rope movement, shifting equipment, or repeated handling

    • Larger and heavier than a typical screwgate HMS carabiner

    • Verify compatibility with your rappel device and intended attachment configuration

  • Black Diamond RockLock Twistlock

    • Large HMS-style locking carabiner

    • Twistlock mechanism allows relatively quick one-handed operation

    • Convenient for repeated clipping and unclipping

    • Larger and heavier than the Petzl Attache

    • Check that the gate and nose cannot interfere with the rappel device

Important: The carabiner connecting your rappel device to your harness and the carabiner used for rope management serve different purposes. Both must be appropriate for their intended use. Always lock and visually inspect locking carabiners before weighting the system.

Rappelling Gloves

• Dedicated Rappelling / Belay Gloves

  • Protect hands from rope friction, abrasion, and heat generated during long rappels

  • Particularly useful during repeated rappels, long descents, and when handling dirty or wet ropes

  • Leather palms provide good durability and abrasion resistance

  • Gloves should fit snugly without interfering with rope handling or braking technique

  • Avoid excessively bulky gloves that reduce dexterity and sensitivity

Examples:

• Petzl Cordex

• Black Diamond Crag Gloves

• Metolius Belay Gloves

Important: Gloves are supplemental protection, not a substitute for proper braking technique. Maintain control of the brake strand at all times.

Friction Hitch / Rappel Backup

• See our Prusik Hitches Page 

• Prusik Loop or Purpose-Made Friction Hitch

  • Used to create an autoblock backup when rappelling

  • Provides an additional safety measure by gripping the rope if the climber releases the brake strand

  • Commonly attached below the rappel device and connected to the harness belay loop

  • Must be correctly sized and compatible with the rappel rope

  • Test the hitch before committing to the rappel to ensure it grabs reliably while still allowing controlled descent

• Recommended Examples:

  • Sterling HollowBlock

    • Excellent purpose-made friction hitch for rock climbing

    • Constructed from high-performance cord with a sewn loop

    • Compact, lightweight, and easy to carry

    • Designed for use as an autoblock and other friction-hitch applications

    • A popular alternative to tying a traditional Prusik from accessory cord

  • Traditional Prusik Loop

    • Can be constructed from appropriate 5-7 mm accessory cord

    • Requires a correctly tied and dressed double-fisherman's joining knot

    • Inexpensive and versatile

    • Cord diameter, material, and construction affect how reliably it grips the rappel rope

• 1 Locking Carabiner for Friction Hitch

  • Connects the autoblock/friction hitch to the harness belay loop

  • Choose a compact locking carabiner that accommodates the hitch without excessive crowding

  • Ensure the hitch is positioned so it cannot be drawn into the rappel device

Important: Friction-hitch performance depends on cord material, diameter, rope construction, rope condition, and the number of wraps. Test the specific combination before relying on it. An autoblock is a backup, not a replacement for maintaining control of the brake strand.

Additional Rappelling Equipment to Consider

• Personal Anchor System (PAS) or Adjustable Lanyard

  • Useful for connecting to rappel anchors while preparing the descent

  • Allows you to remain attached to the anchor while installing the rappel device and threading the rope

  • Examples:

    • Petzl Connect Adjust

    • Black Diamond Link Personal Anchor

  • A properly constructed sling or tether can also serve this purpose when used correctly

• Rope Retrieval / Rope Management

  • Consider a small rope bag or tarp to help keep ropes organized and reduce tangles

  • A rope protector may be necessary when ropes run over sharp or abrasive edges

  • Always inspect the rope path before committing to a rappel

• Headlamp

  • Essential backup equipment for unexpected delays or rappels that extend into darkness

  • Particularly important on multipitch routes and longer alpine objectives