Climbing Gear Notes

There is so much you should be aware of when selecting gear. 

Notes

Taping Fingers

• Leuko Sportstape Premium - Rigid Strapping Tape

• youtube.com/watch?v=a02L_0Mvdbg 

Anchors

• Dyneema Slings

  • Pros/Cons vs Nylon

    • Pros

      • Lighter

      • Less bulky

      • Generally stronger 

    • Cons

      • Static material - not friendly to shock loading

        • You MUST have dynamic component built into system

      • Knots reduce strength by about 50%

      • More expensive

  • A 10mm or 11mm Dyneema (UHMWPE) sling is recommended for anchor building

    • Many slings are much narrower (8mm)

  • 120cm is really too short, unless bolts are really close together

  • 180cm slings work fine for quad anchors on most climbs set up for top roping

  • 240cm slings are just a little longer than 180cm 

    • Great for wrapping around trees

    • Good for more challenging anchor setups

    • Can be tripled to shorten length or add unnecessary strength to masterpoints

• Cordelette

  • 5mm - 5.5 kN

  • 6mm - 7.5 Kn

    • Sometimes used for snow anchors where lower forces are expected

    • This is TOO Weak for rock climbing

  • 7mm - 13 kN

    • Minimum size for Nylon Cord for Anchors

  • Reputable Brands

    • Mammut Pro Cord

    • Sterling 

  • “You can have it strong, light, and cheap. Pick two.”

  • 5.9 mm Sterling Powercord

    • Sheath: Nylon

    • Core: Technora

      • This is very Static, like Dyneema so avoid shock loading it

      • There is a concern that knotting/unknotting will damage and decrease the strength of this over time

    • 19.7kN

Prusik Hitch

• Nylon Accessory Cord

  • 3mm smaller than rope you are using

    • Minimum 5.5-6mm

    • Max 7mm

  • Soft and Supple

    • Squeeze a bite of cord and the eye should just about disappear

  • Regular cord from big retail stores won't work

    • Go to REI or climbing shop

• Sewn Prusik Cord 

  • 7mm max size for most climbing

  • 8mm used with 11mm static ropes used for rescue

  • HollowBlock (Sterling Rope):

    • 6.8mm square shaped hollow braid

      • Aramid fiber

    • 14kN breaking strength

    • 13.5” (34cm) length - traditional Prussic

    • 19” (48cm) a - French Prusik or Klemheist

  • Beal Jammy

    • 5.5mm diameter

      • Polyamide (nylon) sheath

      • Aramid core

    • 35cm length - traditional Prussic

    • 50 and 60cm a - French Prusik or Klemheist

    • It is important that your knot is well dressed, or your Prusik will slide and bunch up

Best of Climbing Gear

• Climbing Gear

  • outdoorgearlab.com/topics/climbing/best-climbing-gear 

• Climbing Rope

  • outdoorgearlab.com/topics/climbing/best-climbing-rope 

• Climbing Nuts and Stoppers

  • outdoorgearlab.com/topics/climbing/best-climbing-nut

• Carabiners 

  • outdoorgearlab.com/topics/climbing/best-carabiner