The way a knife is constructed plays a big part in how well it will preform with different tasks/uses. When choosing a good Outdoor's Knife, it is important to understand some basic concepts in knife construction.
There are a number of ways to grind the knife blade. The grind will impact the blade's durability, ease of sharpening and smoothness of use.
Hollow Grind
Easy to sharpen as metal is thin at edge of blade
Great for slicing meat
Used on razor blades for shaving facial hair
Thinner metal it less resistant to stresses of processing wood
Metal may wrinkle if knife is used to split/chop wood
Flat Grind
Straight taper grind with beveled edge
Much stronger than Hollow Grind
Great for processing wood
More precise cuts for woodworking than Convex
Convex Grind
Blade curves to edge
Strongest blade of 3
Allows for smooth carving and shaving
Better can splitting wood
Difficult and expensive to manufacture convex knife blades
Challenging to sharpen - but can be learned
Of the these three, Flat grinds are the best choice for Bushcraft work. The Hollow Grid is weaker. The Convex Grind is often cost prohibitive.
There are a few different types of Flat Grind Blades. The main ones are the Flat, Scandi and Sabre (important to know for sharpening).
Flat Grind
Straight taper grind with beveled edge
Much stronger than Hollow Grind
Great for processing wood
Scandi Grind aka Scandi Grind Zero
Straight taper grind that goes all the way to edge
Requires sharpening of entire grind when sharpening
Excellent for micro fine detail work
Sabre Grind aka True Scandi Grind
Scandi Grind with micro beveled edge
Edge is a little stronger than Scandi Grind Zero
Easier to sharpen edge than a Scandi Grind Zero
Commonly used in Scandi Knives such as Morakniv
Of these the Scandi and Sabre grinds are generally preferred for Bushcraft work.
There are many types of blade designs and different points. The main two styles used on Outdoor Knives are Clip Points and Drop Points
Clip Point
Very sharp and controllable point
Good for piercing (designed for stabbing)
Classic Hunting Look
Point is weak (not good for Bushcraft use)
Drop Point
Point is very strong
Controllable point
Better for carving
Better for skinning
Less likely to clip intestines when gutting game
Doesn't pierce as easily
Of these two, the Drop Point is generally preferred for Bushcraft work. It is more durable and allows more control when carving.
A blade length of 3.5 to 5 inches is ideal for Bushcraft. Longer blades are more cumbersome to handle, especially for fine detail work. Shorter blade are not able to do some basic wood processing tasks.
Blade width also matters. Thinner blades slice better and thicker blades can take more abuse.
The Spine is the backside (dull side) of the blade. Believe it or note, this has an important use in Bushcrafting.
Rounded Spine
Feels smooth to fingers
Nice to push against when carving
Sharp Spine
Spine machined to 90°
"Sharp" edge used to scrap fuss off of tinder or strike a ferrorod
Saw Spine
Saw used for cutting wood or aircraft sheet metal
This weakens blade
Saw may or not be functional
Not a feature of most modern functional knives
Of these, a "Sharp" Spine is preferred for Bushcrafting. Some knifes come this way. Other knives may be modified and sharpened.
All knives have a little metal that extends into the handle. A Full Tang is where the blade extends all the way through the handle. A Full Tang will take a LOT more abuse than a partial tang knife will. A Full Tang blade is preferred for Bushcraft use.
The two basic types of steel are Carbon Steel and Stainless Steel. Both have their perks and both require maintenance.
Carbon Steel
Holds edge better
Will rust if not maintained
Particularly true in Hot and Wet environments
Use in Pacific Northwest and on Canoe trips requires special care
Requires more care to keep clean and dry
Quality knife will allow you to use Flint and Steel method with spine of knife
Stainless Steel
Difficult to maintain razor edge
"Softer" metal dulls easier and quicker
Takes longer to resharpen
Requires more sharpening
Does not rust
Advantage in Jungle and Canoe trips
For Scouts, Stainless Steel is less problematic as they often take poor care of equipment. For more experienced scouts, the carbon steel has a better edge and rust is generally just cosmetic and easily removed with vinegar.
Some knives are just made better than others. You often get what you pay for, but make sure you are paying for quality and not aesthetics.
Because a Knife is the most important survival tool a Scout can have in the Wilderness, we recommend against getting a low quality tool. Consider the manufacture's reputation and do your research. Also know that some reputable manufactures sell both high and low quality products.
A Morakniv Companion is an excellent knife and can be purchased for less than $20.
There are plenty of knives sold on Amazon in the $50 range that aren't suitable for outdoors use.
These knives may look cool to a Scout, but are not suitable for Scouting activities:
Too large for detailed knife work
Knife may slice through sheath and place wearer at risk
Terrible quality of knife
Heavier use - such as batonning, likely to result in broken tang or blade
Blade designed for lethal stabbing - not a great feature for what we do