The Ferrorod is one the most versatile fire starting tools available for outsdoorsman. Mastering the skill of the ferrorod is one of the more challenging and one the most important skills in Wilderness Survival.
Can be used to start 1000 fires
Waterproof (as long as you don't store it underwater for extended period)
Not affected by the cold
Not affected by air pressure
Not affected by wind
Requires a new skill which requires a LOT of practice
Requires good quality tinder or ability to process good tinder (yet another skill)
Harder to use than matches or lighter
There are several types of ferrorods and their composition and size to make a difference in performance. That said, the biggest factor in performance is the users skill level at using one and the quality of the tinder available.
The composition of Ferrorods mades a difference in performance. There are two main types, Hard and Soft.
Burns hotter but quicker
Lasts a long time
Swedish Army Light My Fire
Auermetal Rods made in Austria
UST BlastMatch (US company made in China)
UST Strike Force (US company made in China)
know as Mischmetal by some
Lower concentration of iron and perhaps more magnesium
Throws burning globs of burning metal
Burns longer
Slow scraping can create a little pile of ready to burn magnesium tinder
Shorter life span than harder ferrorods
Mostly made in China
Some with Euro Names
Überleben (US company with Chinese parts)
Friendly Swede (Swedish company with Chinese parts)
Usually cheaper – unless it has a Euro Brand name
Size matters with a ferrorod
Thicker ones will throw more sparks
Longer ones will also throw more sparks
Thicker and longer ones weigh more but last a lot longer (more uses)
Our instructors often carry 6" x 1/2" rods because they use them over and over again for demonstrations
In order to use a ferrorod, iron needs to be scraped off of the rod fast enough to ignite the iron. Without a good striker, it will be difficult to make a large enough spark for easy ignition of your tinder.
Sharp hard rocks
Broken glass
Hacksaw blade
Sharp spine of knife (back of not, NOT the cutting side)
Back of saw (hacksaw, bow saw, multitool saw)
Carbide lawnmower blade sharpener (Corona Sharpening Tool)
Commercial Strikers
Note that many commercial strikers and hacksaw blades are stamped. When stamping metal, one side will have rounded edges and the other side will have sharp edges. Feel the edge with your fingertips and use the sharp edge against the ferrorod.
This is one of those skills that requires a lot of hands on practice. Here are the basic steps.
Place a pile of high quality tinder on dry surface
Plant ferrorod into tinder or near enough that Hot Sparks will ignite within tinder pile
Firmly place striker on ferrorod with striker at 45° towards the tinder
Angling it at 45° as shown will concentrate sparks between striker and ferrorod and plows it towards your tinder
There are a few variant techniques that work.
Hold striker over tinder and pull rod against Striker
Good control – ferrorod doesn’t hit tinder pile
Good accuracy - Sparks land in tinder
Low heat
Ignition often takes place above tinder
Ignition spread out
Use on tinder that is
Fluffy
Lots of surface area
Anchor ferrorod on hard surface inside/adjacent tinder
Slow and firm push of striker into tinder
Produces a large and hot spark
Great for Fatwood
Use thumb of hand holding rod to force striker against rod
Similar technique used when carving wood
Good control and economy of rod
Commonly used with spine of knife near tip
Difficult to master
Plant ferrorod firmly in tinder
Push striker down ferrorod quickly
Repeat over and over to build up heat
Advantage – builds up a lot of heat
Use on poor quality tinder
Disadvantage –
Shortens ferrorod life
Can result in washboard surface
(needs to be ground smooth)
Plant sawblade firmly adjacent to tinder
Pull ferrorod across spine of saw
Creates a lot of heat in area next to saw
Requires saw or file from multitool or Swiss Army Knife
Allows for full use of rod
Inconsistent pressure on rod may lead to bumps forming on ferrorod surface. Repeated use results in washboard surface which makes the ferrorod more or less unusable
Quick fix is to use other side of rod until you can fix the Washboard surface
File down bumps
Take file and carefully run it around rod to remove bumps
Change how you use rod
Make even strokes with consistent pressure through stroke
Washboard surface