A Lock-Blade Knife allows you to lock the blade in the open position. This function allows a folding knife to be temporarily turned into a Fixed-Blade knife. This prevents the blade from folding during use, which is a huge safety feature. Lock-Blade knives also tend to be meatier than traditional folding knives, allowing for rougher use in the outdoors.
Lock-Blade Knifes have been around since the 15th Century and there are many designs. They really became popular in the US when Buck Knives released their Lockback Knife now known as the Model 110 Folding Hunter in 1963. Commonly referred to as "Buck Knives", there are now many different Lock-Blade options available from many different manufactures.
A locking-blade is much safer for whittling and carving wood and therefor preferred for these tasks over a traditional folding knife. There are also MANY quality options to choose from as popularity of locking-blade knives has surpassed other knives.
Do note that these may be considered illegal in some Cities as well as some Countries where it is considered a weapon.
Note: Ones that auto-open should not be brought on scouting events. These are illegal in Washington State.
Great utility
Safer than non-locking knife for whittling and carving
Thicker and more durable blade than most traditional folders
Many options
Easier to find a good quality lock blade than non-locking knife
Relatively Non threatening
May be illegal in some cities and countries
Some adults fear locking blade knives
Some blades come with a serrated edge.
Serrated will stay sharper for longer
A non-serrated blade is easier to sharpen and is easier to carve with
In scouting and for survival, a non-serrated blade is preferred
There are thousands of knife options out there. So how does one go about choosing a knife? Consider:
Reputable Brand
Brand name matters
US or European Made is generally preferred
Chinese made knives are hit and miss
Some are SO low quality, they are dangerous to use
Style
Traditional lock-blade
Non-serrated edge
Round belly
Avoid unconventional blade shapes
Price
You can find a quality knife for under $25
Expensive knifes will get lost or damaged just as easily as a $20 one
A Scout doesn't need a $100 knife. But since the knife is the more important survival tool in a scouts possession, our scouts deserve a knife that isn't junk.
Some of these companies source parts and knives from abroad (China), but are know to be generally reliable.
See our Reputable Lock Blade Knife Manufactures Page for more on these
Buck Knives $ to $$$
Gerber $ to $$$
Kershaw Knives $ to $$
Victorinox $$ to $$$
Opinel $ to $$ (not traditional US-style)
Cold Steel Knife and Tool $ to $$$
Boker Manufactory $ to $$$$
Spyderco $$ to $$$
Benchmade Knife $$$ to $$$$
Emerson Knives $$$ to $$$$
DPx Gear $$$ to $$$$
Zero Tolerance Knives $$$ to $$$$
The Gerber Paraframe Knife is an example of a adequate, affordable knife
Can be found for under $20
This is a great starter knife for a Scout
If a scout loses this knife, it can be easily replaced
Reasonable quality for a scout
REI sells one with a firerod and sharpener - great value and gift for Scout
The Gerber Zilch is another affordable knife option
Buck has long been known for making durable lock-blade knives. The Bantam series has reasonable knives in different sizes.
283 Nano Bantam - 1 7/8" blade
284 BBW – Bantam Bantam Weight - 2 3/4" blade
285 BLW – Bantam Light Weight - 3 1/8" blade
286 BHW – Bantam Heavy Weight - 3 5/8" blade
The 284 BBW is good for small hands while the 285 BLW is good for regular adult sized hands.
The Nano is meant for a keychain or Cub Scout and the 286 BHW is for sasquatch hands.
They come in different colors and orange is the easiest one to see when it is left on the ground.
Nylon handle construction isn't as durable as classic Buck Knives like the 110 and 112, but for the price, it's an excellent starter knife.
You can find 284 BBW knives for under $20 when on sale - otherwise they go for around $25.
Buck also makes higher end knives.
A few lock-blades are designed for Bushcrafing. This is in part due to the need for batoning, which isn't good for knives with a hinge. The Finn Wolf is NOT designed for batoning, but the nice Scandinavian style blade is good for carving and other non-impact bushcrafting. Price is very reasonable at around $35
Other Lock-Blades with Scandi grid get pricey
Brisa Borka (Finland re-branded from EnZo)
Helle (Norway)
Favorite Knife for many Outdoors Folks (especially in Europe)
Excellent knife for a mature scout and for under $15 (No. 6)
French-made blade
Signature convex grind can be sharpened razor sharp (may come dull)
INOX Blade
Swedish 12C27 Modified Stainless Steel
Doesn't rust - better for most Scouts and good for PNW
Carbone Blade
XC90 High Carbon Steel
Keeps a sharper edge
Easier to sharpen
Stays sharper longer
Patina (dark aged look) forms over time
Rusts if not cared for
Can be used for Flint and Steel Fire Techniques - throws nice sparks
Not as durable as knives with thicker blades
Old school Virobloc twist-lock
Non Tradition style lock in US - so needs to be shown to Scout
Can lock knife in Open or in Closed position - safer in pocket
Locking ring can be removed to make it legal in the UK
Old school look (function over style)
Many options
Small Utility Knives
Folding Knives WITHOUT Lock
No. 2-5
1.36-2.36" blade
Every Day Carry Knives
Good sized Pocket Knives with Virobloc Lock
No. 6-8
2.87-3.28" blade
Good size for Scouts and most Adults
Work Knives
Little too big for everyday pocket carry
No. 9-12
3.51-4.82" blade
Alternate to fixed blade knife like a Morakniv
Conceals in pocket - doesn't look scary
Better for small cutting tasks like prepping food
Doesn't break "No Sheath Knife" rule at camp
Not as robust
Hinge, lock and handle not designed for batoning
No.12 Carbone has 2.27mm thick blade (compared to 2.5mm and 3.2 Moras)
Other Knives for different uses
Giant sized No. 13
No. 12 and 18 Saws
Gardening Knives
Food Prep Knives
Children Knives
"Outdoor" Knives
Bright colored polymer handles
Built in whistle (makes handle very long)
Some come with fire starting rod
Cool but Honestly overpriced for what you get
These aren't the legendary knives made by ESEE with their unconditional ESEE Warranty. They are more economical knives designed by Jeff Randall and Mike Perrin from ESEE, produced by Blue Ridge Knives, and manufactured in Taiwan. These, like their Ontario RAT competitors (same designers), make for reasonable knife options designed for light bushcraft activities.
Economical knives (made in Taiwan) around $35-40
Full Flat Grind
Come in two sizes
Avispa - 3.5" blade
Zancudo - 3.0" blade
Several blade options
AUS-8 - Japanese Stainless Steel option - doesn't rust
D2 - Tool Steel option ("semi Stainless") - holds an edge for very long but harder to sharpen (excellent steel for mature users)
SK5 - Japanese med/high Carbon Steel - Rusts, doesn't hold edge very long but can get a really fine edge (used to make razor blades)
Comes in multiple colors including Orange
Thumb Stud Design
Out of way for deep cutting (good)
Challenging to open with one thumb
Also see Ontario Knife's RAT Folder Series which are very similar (same designers)
BRK also has the $20 Chinese made ESEE Churp
Not a great knife, but also NOT bad for the price
Standard Swiss Army Knife size with nail nick
D2 Steel
Most quality multi-tools incorporate a locking blade
They also come with a wide range of other useful tools
Good quality multitools can get very expensive
If you love Swiss Army Knives, they have lock-blade options too
Discussed in our Multi-Tools Section
Most lockblades and pocket knives come with blades that are made from some type of Stainless Steel. Stainless Steel is generally "tougher" and shouldn't rust. For Scouts and most adults, Stainless Steel is the preferred type of metal for knives.
Other options are available for specialty and high end knives. These include Carbon Steel alloys such as 1084, 1095, D2, SK5 and many designer alloys that impart a complex mix of toughness, hardness, strength, rust resistance, sharpenability and edge retention. Many experienced outdoorsman prefer Carbon Steel knives over Stainless Steel ones. They allow for a sharp edge that doesn't dull easily and some allow for flint on steel fire starting (important for Lewis and Clark). The downside of high carbon steel is that they rust if not maintained and may break if heavily abused - such as using the blade as a crowbar.
Recommendation:
Stainless Steel Blades
These can get wet or put away dirty without rushing away
is preferred for most Scouts
Carbon Steel Blades
Was once the norm but are a little harder to find these days
Allow for finer edges, a plus when carving, making feathers and with fancy food prep
Requires you to respect and take care of your blade
Only recommended for mature people who appreciate the utility and quality of a good blade