Anchor Kits

Recommended Anchor Kit

For a versatile trad climbing and multipitch setup consider the following:

• Anchor Kit

  • Anchor Cord

    • 21 feet of 7mm accessory cord

  • Locking Carabiners

    • 2 Autolocking 

    • 2 HMS

• Rescue Kit

  • Rescue Cord

    • Additional 20+ feet of 6-7mm cord

  • Rescue Carabiner

    • 1 additional locking carabiner

Anchor Kits

An anchor kit is a collection of cordage and carabiners used to construct climbing anchors, establish masterpoints, and facilitate transitions between climbing systems.

A typical anchor kit consists of one length of cord or sling and 2-4 locking carabiners. The exact configuration depends on whether you're climbing single-pitch or multipitch routes and what types of anchors you expect to encounter.

Recommended Anchor Kit Configuration

• Single-Pitch Anchor Kit

  • One dedicated anchor kit for building top-rope or rappel anchors

• Multipitch Anchor Kit

  • A second anchor kit for building belay stations and managing transitions between pitches

• Additional Rescue Cordage

  • Each climber should carry an additional 5-7mm Alpine Cordelette for self-rescue and emergency applications

  • Carry one additional locking carabiner to rack the cord and use during rescue operations

Important: Anchor kits should be configured around the types of anchors you expect to encounter. No single configuration will accommodate every situation

Anchor Cord and Slings

There are several options for anchor cordage. The best choice depends on intended use, strength, weight, durability, handling characteristics, and ease of untying after loading.

Option 1: 7mm Alpine Cordelette

Recommended general-purpose option

A 7mm accessory cord tied into a loop with a Double Fisherman's Knot is an exceptionally versatile piece of climbing equipment.

Recommended configuration:

• 7mm accessory cord

• Approximately 21 feet of cord per anchor kit

• Double Fisherman's Knot to form a closed loop

Advantages:

• Versatile for building anchors, masterpoints, and quad anchors.

• Useful for self-rescue and improvised climbing systems.

• Generally more durable and abrasion-resistant than ultralight Dyneema slings.

• Handles knots well and provides more stretch than Dyneema.

• Can be configured in multiple ways depending on anchor requirements.

Cord Length and Applications

The amount of cord required depends on the intended configuration.

Application

• Quad anchor: 14 feet

• Longer quad configuration: 17 feet

• General-purpose masterpoint: 21 feet

• Self-rescue cordage: 20+ feet

These are approximate starting lengths, not guaranteed finished dimensions. Anchor geometry, knot size, and desired extension range affect the final configuration.

Double Fisherman's Knot Considerations

• A Double Fisherman's Knot consumes approximately 35-40cm of cord, depending on cord diameter and tail length.

• Account for this when determining the finished loop length.

• Dress and tighten the knot properly, leaving appropriate tails.

Breaking Strength

Approximate minimum breaking strengths for common accessory cord diameters:

• 5mm: 5.1 kN

• 6mm: 7.5 kN

• 7mm: 13 kN

These figures are illustrative and vary by manufacturer and cord construction. Always consult the manufacturer's specifications.

Diameter Recommendations:

• 7mm: Preferred over 6mm for general-purpose rock anchor cordage when an appropriate rated cord is selected.

• 6mm: Not my preferred choice for general-purpose rock anchors. May have applications in specialized systems, including glacier travel, when appropriately rated.

• 5mm: Not recommended for general-purpose climbing anchor construction.

Do not select cordage based on diameter alone. Verify its intended application, rated strength, knot performance, and compatibility with the anchor system.

Weight Comparison

Approximate weight for 21 feet of accessory cord:

• 5mm: 110g

• 6mm:140g

• 7mm: 200g

Recommended Examples:

• Sterling 7mm Accessory Cord

• Mammut Pro Cord 7mm

Option 2: Black Diamond Infinity Cord (240cm)

A lightweight, continuous-loop sling constructed with a Dynex filament core and a Dynex/nylon blend sheath.

Specifications:

• Length: 240cm

• Diameter: 4.5mm

• Construction: Continuous-loop Dynex filament core with a Dynex/nylon blend sheath

• Rated strength: 22 kN+

• Weight: Approximately 62g

Advantages:

• Extremely lightweight for its strength.

• Continuous-loop construction.

• Relatively easy to untie knots after loading.

• Useful for building anchors and configuring masterpoints.

Considerations:

• Smaller diameter than conventional accessory cord.

• Less forgiving of abrasion and sharp edges than thicker cordage.

• Limited stretch compared with nylon accessory cord.

• Requires attention to knot selection, dressing, and loading configuration.

Option 3: Metolius Open Loop Sling (240cm)

Formerly known as the Monster Sling, this is a wide, open-loop sling constructed from Dyneema and nylon fibers.

Specifications:

• Length: 240cm

• Width: 11mm

• Construction: Dyneema and nylon fibers

• Rated strength: 22 kN

• Weight: Approximately 93g

Advantages:

• Wide construction makes it easier to handle than thin cord.

• Relatively easy to untie knots after loading.

• Lightweight compared with an equivalent length of accessory cord.

• Can be configured into a quad anchor.

Quad Anchor Configuration

A quad anchor is created by doubling the sling and incorporating knots to establish a masterpoint.

• Multiple strands provide redundancy.

• The configuration allows the anchor to distribute loading across multiple attachment points.

• Knots establish the masterpoint and limit extension in the event of a failure.

Knot Strength Reduction

• Knots reduce the strength of individual sling strands.

• Dyneema is particularly sensitive to strength reductions associated with knots and tight bends.

• The strength of a completed quad depends on the sling construction, knot configuration, loading direction, and number of effectively loaded strands.

Do not assume that doubling a sling automatically produces a 40-44 kN anchor. Nor should the sling's original 22 kN rating be treated as the guaranteed strength of a knotted system.

Shock Loading Considerations

Dyneema has very low elongation and absorbs relatively little energy compared with nylon.

• A severe fall directly onto a rigid Dyneema anchor can generate significant impact forces.

• A fall from above the anchor can create particularly unfavorable loading conditions.

• Avoid configurations that permit substantial slack or uncontrolled extension.

• Consider the material's limited energy absorption when choosing between Dyneema and nylon-based cordage.

For general-purpose anchor cordage, I favor 7mm nylon accessory cord because of its versatility, durability, and handling characteristics.

Locking Carabiners

The number and type of locking carabiners you carry will depend on the anchor configurations you intend to build.

General recommendation: Carry four locking carabiners per anchor kit.

This provides enough flexibility for most common anchor configurations without carrying an excessive amount of hardware.

Carabiner Selection

We recommend carrying a combination of two types:

1. Autolocking Carabiners

• Used to connect the anchor cord or sling to bolts and other anchor attachment points.

• Prefer reliable locking mechanisms that are easy to inspect and operate.

• Particularly useful when building anchors that require multiple attachment points.

2. HMS Locking Carabiners

HMS (pear-shaped) carabiners are especially useful at the masterpoint.

Advantages:

• Accommodate multiple strands of anchor cordage.

• Provide room for multiple clove hitches.

• Excellent for Munter hitches.

• Compatible with common belay devices, including the ATC and Reverso.

• Smooth, rounded rope-bearing surfaces help reduce friction and wear.

Recommended HMS Carabiners

Petzl Attache

• HMS-shaped screwgate carabiner

• Wide pear shape accommodates multiple masterpoint strands

• Excellent for clove hitches, Munter hitches, and belay devices

• A great general-purpose anchor and belay carabiner

Metolius Rig Auto Lock Carabiner

• Triple-action autolocking mechanism

• Designed to reduce the possibility of accidental opening

• Useful for anchor attachment points

• Larger and heavier than the Petzl Attache

Black Diamond RockLock Twistlock

• HMS-shaped autolocking carabiner

• Twistlock mechanism is relatively easy to operate with one hand

• Good general-purpose anchor and belay carabiner

• Larger and heavier than the Petzl Attache

Recommended Carabiner Configurations

The number and type of carabiners needed depend on the anchor configuration.

Configuration A: Quad Anchor on Bolts

Recommended: Four locking carabiners

• 2 autolocking carabiners

  • One for each bolt.

  • Connect the anchor sling or cord to the individual anchor points.

• 2 HMS locking carabiners

  • Used at the masterpoint.

  • Provide a convenient connection point for the climbing rope, belay device, and other anchor systems.

This configuration provides a versatile setup for building a quad anchor on two bolts.

Configuration B: Masterpoint on Three Cams

Recommended: Two HMS locking carabiners per anchor kit

• 1 HMS locking carabiner for the masterpoint

  • Connects the anchor components and provides a central attachment point.

• 1 HMS locking carabiner for personal attachment and additional tasks

  • Used for self-anchoring.

  • Useful for top-rope configurations.

  • Provides a backup or spare carabiner for other anchor-related tasks.

This is a lighter configuration when building traditional anchors using cams and a cordelette.

The appropriate number of carabiners ultimately depends on the anchor design, attachment method, and intended use. Two carabiners should not be assumed to provide redundancy by themselves.