Mountain Climbing

Troop 60 > Activities > Climbing > Mountaineering > Mountaineering Skills

Mountaineering Skills

The Mountains are Inherently Unpredictable and Unforgiving

Warning: Mountain Climbing requires special training and gear and is inherently dangerous.

We have Skilled and Experienced Youth and Adult Climbers in our Troop. If a climb is considered, a good amount of training must be completed prior to a summit attempt and only a select few Scouts and Adults will be able to attend.

If you are considering a Climb, consider taking a climbing course AND using a Guide Service for your big adventure.

Do NOT Attempt Mountain Climbing without Properly Training and Experienced Guides!

Basic Mountaineering Skills

There are a minimum set of basic skills that all participants MUST have prior to climbing. The following is a set of resources to help aquint Scouts with various skills needed for climbing. This is NOT a replacement for training from a certified instructor.

Note that Climb Leaders need a more comprehensive set of skills to lead a climb and this page does NOT include all of the skills they need to lead a trip. Some of those skill as listed below in the Advanced Mountaineering Skills section.

Rope Ascension

Basic Rock Skills

Gear
Rope Management
- Climbing Knots & Techniques How to Remember Them | Ep.9 - Hard Is Easy
- How to Coil Climbing Rope - Outdoor Research
- How To Tie The Auto-Block, Prusik And Klemheist Friction Hitches - Outdoor Research
- How to Rack Cordelette || REI - REI
- Cordelettes - General Tips - AlpineSavvy Webpage
- The "open" cordelette - AlpineSavvy Webpage
- Climb Safe: Spectra versus Nylon -Web Archive from rockandice.com
- Knots
Top Rope Belay
- How to Back Up a Beginner's Belay - Outdoor Research
- Rock Climbing: How to Belay - REI
- How to Belay - Top Rope | Ep.10 - Hard Is Easy
- Rock Climbing Basics: Toprope Belay Technique - Climbing Magazine
- HOW TO Partner Check - Julia Chanourdie - Petzl Sport (in French)
- HOW TO belay with GRIGRI - Petzl Sport
- AAC Universal Belay Standard
  - AAC Universal Belay Standard - Part 1 - American Alpine Club
  - AAC Universal Belay Standard Ep. 3 - Details Matter - American Alpine Club
    - Part 2 appears to be about Lead Climbing Belay
Anchor Building
- Rock Climbing: Building a Top-Rope Anchor Using the Quad - REI
  - How to Build Anchors for Climbing - REI Webpage
- Quad Anchors | Everything You Need to Know - Summit Seekers Experience
  - Note: Locking carabiners should be used
  - video also shows 6 strand quad with Dyneema sling
- How To Build A Quad Anchor - Outdoor Research
- How to Set Up a Top Rope Anchor on Two Bolts - Outdoor Research
- How to set up top rope anchors - Altus Mountain Guides
- How to equalize a two point anchor - UKClimbing
- Self-Equalizing Anchor - VIDEORACLES
- How To Set Up A Top Rope Anchor | Climbing Daily Ep.1761 - EpicTV Climbing Daily
- When anchor acronyms go bad - Over The Edge Rescue - Over the Edge Rescue Web Page
  - SERENE: Solid (or strong), Equalized, Redundant, Efficient, No, Extension
  - ERNEST(A): Equalized, Redundant, No, Extension, Solid (or strong), Timely, (Angles)
  - STRADS: Solid, Timely, Redundant, Angles, Distribution, Shockload
Anchor Cleaning
- How to Clean Top Rope Anchors - Outdoor Research
  - Also shows "Troweling" technique
- How to Clean Gear From a Trad Climbing Route - Outdoor Research
- Rock Climbing: Cleaning a Top Rope Anchor - REI
- Arc'teryx Tips: Cleaning an Anchor with Janelle Smiley - Arc'teryx
- How to Clean Climbing Anchors - Summit Seekers Experience
  - Note: beginning of video show method of cleaning without use of PAS
  - Rappel demo at 5:15 shows use of single strand PAS (such as Petzl Connect) used for extension
Rappelling
- How To Set Up A Rappel - Outdoor Research
- How To Set Up A Rappel Extension - Outdoor Research
- How to Clean Climbing Anchors - Summit Seekers Experience
  - Rappel demo at 5:15 shows use of single strand PAS (such as Petzl Connect) used for extension
- Rock Climbing: How to Rappel - REI
- The Extended Rappel with an Autoblock - Seattle Mountaineers
  - How to Extended Rappel - Seattle Mountaineers Web Page
- AAC Know the Ropes: Rappelling -American Alpine Club
  - AAC Rappelling - AAC Webpage
- Advanced Rappel Techniques - SIET, School for International Expedition Training
  - Discusses failures
Ability to comfortably climb 5.6 rock at a minimum
Ascending Rope
- Vital skill to help ascend a rope on a difficult climb and for self rescue and rescue of others
- Introduction to prusiks - LeadingEdge Mountain
- How to Ascend Climbing Rope - Outdoor Research
  - Several techniques shown
- How to prusik up a rope - climbing a rope. - Sam Farns Climbing
  - using Prusik , French Prusik and alpine sling
- Texas Prusik Technique - OSAT
- Prusiking up a rope - LeadingEdge Mountain
- How To Prusik Up a Rope - Trad Climbing Self-Rescue Skills - VDiff Climbing
  - Using single sling to belay loop; double sling to foot; Klemheist friction loops
  - Shows transfer of hitch over ledge with and without pinching hand
- How to Ascend a Rope During a Rappel - Summit Seekers Experience
  - Using ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso for ascending and rappel
- Also see below in "Basic Glacier Skills" under "Crevasse Rescue and Glacier Anchor Basics"

Basic Glacier Skills

Gear
- Pack list for high alpine tours: equipment with crampons, ice axe, etc. – Tutorial (1/18) | LAB ICE - ORTOVOX SAFETY ACADEMY
- Apparel for high alpine touring: merino underwear, softshell jacket, etc – Tutorial (2/18) | LAB ICE - ORTOVOX SAFETY ACADEMY
- Protective equipment high alpine touring: Bivy bag, first aid kit, etc. – Tutorial (3/18) | LAB ICE - ORTOVOX SAFETY ACADEMY
Glacier Travel and Rope Management
- Basic Travel
  - Walking techniques high alpine tours: on firn with crampons & ice axe – Tutorial (9/18) | LAB ICE - ORTOVOX SAFETY ACADEMY
  - Walking techniques high alpine tours: on ice with crampons & ice axe – Tutorial (10/18) | LAB ICE - ORTOVOX SAFETY ACADEMY
  - Roping up on a glacier: Rope spacing in a rope team, brake knots & more – Tutorial (11/18) | LAB ICE - ORTOVOX SAFETY ACADEMY
  - Coiling excess rope around your body: Alternatives to butterfly coils – Tutorial (12/18) | LAB ICE - ORTOVOX SAFETY ACADEMY
  - Snow Travel Techniques for Mountaineering - REI
- Efficient rope team management
  - Glacier and Roped Travel for Mountaineering - REI
  - How To Travel on a Glacier with Xavier De Le Rue | How To Xv - Xavier de Le Rue
  - Advanced Glacier Travel Techniques and Kiwi Coils - SIET, School for International Expedition Training
  - How to Rope Up for Glacier Travel - Outdoor Research
  - Glacier Travel with Three or Four people - Skills for Climbing
  - Alpine & Mountaineering: 26. Team Rope and Travel Considerations | Climbing Tech Tips - Climbing Tech Tips
  - Running Belay in Snow - DShutt2012
  - Arc'teryx Alpine Academy - Roping up for Glaciers - UKClimbing
Crampon use
- Choosing and Fitting Crampons | Episode 2 | MSC Alpine Snow Skills Series - NZ Mountain Safety Council
- Crampon Techniques | Episode 4 | MSC Alpine Snow Skills Series - NZ Mountain Safety Council
- How to Use Crampons - REI
- How to Choose Crampons - REI
- Crampon Care - REI
- How to Sharpen Crampons - REI
- Crampon Techniques - DShutt2012
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1lXvWqU4URI
Ice Axe use
- Ice axe arrest / self arrest - Glenmore Lodge
- How to Use an Ice Axe for Mountaineering - REI
- Walking with an Ice Axe | Episode 1 | MSC Alpine Snow Skills Series - NZ Mountain Safety Council
- How to Self Arrest | Episode 5 | MSC Alpine Snow Skills Series - NZ Mountain Safety Council
- How to Use an Ice Axe for Mountaineering - REI
- How to Choose an Ice Axe - REI
Crevasse Rescue and Glacier Anchor Basics
- Ascending Rope
  - See Ascending Rope in Basic Alpine Section
  - Self-rescue from a crevasse using a Prusik & Garda hitch – Tutorial (17/18) | LAB ICE - ORTOVOX SAFETY ACADEMY
    - Using Garda hitch
  - Self-rescue from a crevasse with rope clamps (Micro Traxion) – Tutorial (18/18) | LAB ICE - ORTOVOX SAFETY ACADEMY
    - Using Micro Traxion
- Anchors
  - How to Build a Snow Anchor - Outdoor Research
  - Snow Anchors for Mountaineering - REI
  - Alpine & Mountaineering: 15. Snow Anchors - Using your Ice Axe | Climbing Tech Tips - Climbing Tech Tips
  - How To Build An Ice Anchor - Outdoor Research
  - How to Transfer a Fallen Climber's Weight to a Snow Anchor for Crevasse Rescue - Outdoor Research
  - How to Back Up a Snow Anchor for Crevasse Rescue - Outdoor Research
  - Anchors on firn: T-slot anchor with an ice axe vs. sitting hip belay – Tutorial (13/18) | LAB ICE - ORTOVOX SAFETY ACADEMY
  - Anchors on ice: Building V-thread and ice screw anchors – a guide – Tutorial (14/18) | LAB ICE - ORTOVOX SAFETY ACADEMY
- Crevasse Rescue Skills - REI Webpage
- Ice Ax Boot Belay - Daniel Winter
- Rescues will be led by Trained Adults or Guides - See Advanced Skills Below
Avalanche Training
- How to Identify Avalanche Terrain - Outdoor Research
- How to Choose Terrain to Reduce Avalanche Risk - Outdoor Research
- Reducing Risk: How to Recognize Avalanche Terrain - REI
- Avalanches, Part 2: Snow Tests - REI

Deadman Snow Anchor

Snowpit Analysis

Advanced Skills

Advanced techniques are great to learn, but for the most part will be performed by experienced Adult Leads and Mountian Guides when needed.

Per Scouting America's guidelines, we won't be able to work on many of the skills below at a Troop level. Scouts and adults will need to work on these skills outside of our Troop. Come talk to our Mountaineering team to learn more about training opportunites.

Lead Climbing

Advanced Rock Skills

How NOT to use a GriGri
- What happens if you Don't Hold the Rope with GriGri? -Hard Is Easy
  - Not holding GriGri right
- I had a Near Fatal Incident - GriGri Slipping -Hard Is Easy
  - Lead belay - not holding rope tight
  - Added friction from rope rubbing on rock
  - Standing under overhang changes angle of rope to GriGri
- Coach Nearly Kills Pro Climber – GriGri Incident Analysis -Hard Is Easy
  - NO brake hand!
  - Pushed down on cam - may have thought climber needed more rope?
- The World's Worst Belayer - Bad belaying techniques - Petzl Sport
Lead Climb Belay
Lead Climbing
- All climbers should have an understanding of this basic skill
- In Scouting America, lead climbing is conducted in Venturering but NOT in Troops
- Lead climbs, if needed, must be performed by experienced adults
- How to Clip Quickdraws - Outdoor Research
- Rock Climbing: Lead Fall - REI
- Lead Climbing: How to Place Trad Gear - REI
Trad Climbing
- How To Build A Three Piece Anchor - Outdoor Research
- How to Place Cams - Outdoor Research
- Tips for placing cams with Beth Rodden - Metolius Climbing
- How to Place Cams | Beginner's Guide to Trad Climbing - Summit Seekers Experience
  - 5 point grading system
- How to rack for trad climbing with Beth Rodden - Metolius ClimbingEpicTV Climbing Daily
- Building Your Trad Climbing Rack | Climbing Daily Ep.861 - EpicTV Climbing Daily
- Using Slings to Equalise A Trad Anchor | Climbing Daily Ep.1179 - EpicTV Climbing Daily
- How To Use A Guide Belay Plate | Climbing Daily Ep.1184 - EpicTV Climbing Daily
Crack Climbing
- How to hand jam, thumb up | Wide Boyz Crack School - Wide Boyz
- How to hand jam, thumb down | Wide Boyz Crack School - Wide Boyz
- How to move whilst crack climbing, swimming technique | Wide Boyz Crack School - Wide Boyz
- Foot jamming for crack climbing | Wide Boyz Crack School - Wide Boyz
- Climbing: How to Jam Hand Cracks - REI
Multipitch
- How To Belay from Above - Outdoor Research
- How to Belay From Above with a Grigri - Outdoor Research
- How to Clean Gear From a Trad Climbing Route - Outdoor Research
- Multi-pitch belay change overs - Altus Mountain Guides
- Multi pitch Belay Station management - Chris Lawrence Guiding
- Setting up a multi-pitch rappel - Skills for Climbing
- Multi-Pitch Rappelling- Potentially Fatal Errors to Avoid - SIET, School for International Expedition Training
Belay Escape
- Climbing tips: ESCAPE BELAY! (Part 1: Tying off your belay device) - Obsession Climbing
- How to go Hands-free While Belaying - Outdoor Research
- How to tie off a belay plate - Steve Long
  - Tying off a belay device ("belay plate") on the spine of the carabiner
- Basic & Intermediate Outdoor Climbing: 14. How To Tie The Munter Hitch | Climbing Tech Tips - Climbing Tech Tips
  - Belay and tie-off with Munter
- Belay Escape - Rob Busack
  - Fully escaping a belay using the rope
  - Effective, but sloppy appearing Mule and Overhand knots shown in video - ideally "milk" knots so they are pressed against hitch
  - A classic Prusik is used as friction hitch
    - Autoblock will also work, but will unlock easily if tension is removed during setup
    - Classic Prusik or Klemheist is preferred friction hitch for this setup
- How to Escape the Belay | Step by Step guide for rescuing a stranded climber - Summit Seekers Experience
  - Another example of escaping Belay
  - Shows how to lower climber after escape using friction hitch as backup
Belay From Above
- How To Set Up A Top Managed Belay Site - Outdoor Research
- How To Belay from Above - Outdoor Research
- How to Belay From Above with a Grigri - Outdoor Research
- How to Belay with a Munter Hitch - Outdoor Research
Rappel
- How To Set Up A Rappel - Outdoor Research
- How To Throw Rappel Ropes - Outdoor Research
- How to Set Up a Tag Line for Rappelling - Outdoor Research
- How to Set Up a Simul-Rappel - Outdoor Research
- How to Set Up an Improvised Rappel - Outdoor Research
- Doug Robinson shows us How NOT 2 rappel - HowNOT2
Rope Management
- How to Coil and Carry a Rope to Avoid Triggering Rock Fall While Alpine Climbing - Outdoor Research
- How to Lap Coil Your Rope at the Anchor - Outdoor Research
- How to go Hands-free While Belaying - Outdoor Research
- How to Turn a Munter Hitch Into a Clove Hitch - Outdoor Research
Anchors
- How to Set Up a Top Rope Anchor on Two Bolts - Outdoor Research
- How To Build A Three Piece Anchor - Outdoor Research
- How To Build An Anchor With Two Slings And Three Pieces - Outdoor Research
- How to Place Cams - Outdoor Research
- How to Clean Top Rope Anchors - Outdoor Research
- How to Stick Clip the First Bolt - Outdoor Research
- How to Set Up an Anchor Using a Master Carabiner - Outdoor Research
- Alpine Anchors - SIET, School for International Expedition Training
  - Anchors using alpine slings
- How To Replace Old Webbing on Fixed Anchors - Outdoor Research
- Advanced Climbing Anchors: Efficient 3 Piece Systems - SIET, School for International Expedition Training
  - The V-Clove - when you have a short loop on a 3 anchor setup
- Gear
Rescue
- How To Raise A Climber From Above Using A 3:1 System - Outdoor Research
- How To Assist While Belaying From Above - Outdoor Research
- How To Lower A Climber From A Loaded Auto-Locking Device - Outdoor Research

Advanced Glacier Skills

Advanced Knots and Hitches
- Bachmann Hitch knot
  - Hitch wraps around carabineer
  - The Bachmann Hitch knot | friction hitch - Wooden Shoes Knots and Climbing
  - The Bachmann Knot - ARC Climbing Yoga Fitness
- FB hitch
  - Used for dyneema slings
  - The "FB" sling friction hitch - AlpineSavvy Webpage
- Glacier Brake Knot
  - Overhand or Figure of 8 with an extra loop or two around the knot at the end to make it larger
  - Used to limit fall depth into crevasse
  - Often used for 2-person rope teams
  - The brake knot for 2 person glacier travel - AlpineSavvy Webpage
  - Butterfly knot, double over hand knot: Brake knots on high alpine tours – Tutorial (8/18) | LAB ICE - ORTOVOX SAFETY ACADEMY
- Garda Hitch
  - Uses 2 carabineers
  - Pros and cons of the Garda Hitch
Crevasse Rescue
- Pulleys: Crevasse rescue with pulleys on a glacier – Tutorial (15/18) | LAB ICE - ORTOVOX SAFETY ACADEMY
- Hauling: Crevasse rescue in large rope teams on a glacier – Tutorial (16/18) | LAB ICE - ORTOVOX SAFETY ACADEMY
- How to Rappel Into and Ascend Out of a Crevasse - Outdoor Research
- How to Haul a Climber Out of a Crevasse - Outdoor Research
- How to Transfer a Fallen Climber's Weight to a Snow Anchor for Crevasse Rescue - Outdoor Research
- CREVASSE RESCUE! An instruction on C-Pulley rescue - OSAT
- How to Transfer a Fallen Climber's Weight to a Snow Anchor for Crevasse Rescue - Outdoor Research
- How to Prepare a Crevasse Lip for Rescue - Outdoor Research
- Glacier Skills Equipment List.pdf - PDF
- Crevasse Rescue illustration 2020.pdf - PDF
- Mountaineers and American Mountain Guides Association:
  - Drawings of a Crevasse Rescue Set-Up - Deling Ren
  - Snow Anchors - American Mountain Guides Assoc
  - Roping up Glacier - American Mountain Guides Assoc
  - Anchor set up and transferring the Load to an Anchor - American Mountain Guides Assoc
  - Backing up a Picket Anchor - American Mountain Guides Assoc
  - Approaching and Preparing the Lip of the Crevasse - American Mountain Guides Assoc
  - Crevasse Rescue: Rappel and Reascend - American Mountain Guides Assoc
    - Note: different rope ascending technique
  - Crevasse Rescue: Hauling - American Mountain Guides Assoc
    - Note: a Prusik can be used in place of a Micro Traxion