Belay Devices

Belay Devices

Arrive with a belay device you already know how to use. Do not plan on learning a new device for the first time at the base of a climb. Different devices have different rope-feeding, braking, and lowering techniques. Become familiar with your device and practice using it before climbing with us. If the Lead Climber requires a particular device, they should provide it or communicate that requirement ahead of time.

Belay Devices

• Bring 1 locking carabiner to attach the belay device to your harness

  • A screw-locking or auto-locking carabiner is recommended.

• General Recommendations

  • Petzl GriGri is the default recommendation for most climbers. It is widely used, familiar to many climbers, and an excellent general-purpose belay device.

  • The Edelrid PINCH is another excellent cam-assisted option.

  • The Black Diamond ATC Pilot is an excellent alternative, particularly for climbers who prefer a device without a moving cam mechanism. It accommodates both left- and right-handed belayers.

  • Assisted-braking devices are standard equipment at many climbing gyms and within many climbing communities.

  • If the Lead Climber wants their follower(s) to use a particular belay device, the Lead Climber should provide that device or communicate the requirement in advance.

• Important distinction: Assisted braking vs. cam-assisted braking

  • Not all assisted-braking devices work the same way.

  • Cam-assisted devices, such as the Petzl GriGri and Edelrid PINCH, use an internal cam mechanism that pinches the rope when properly loaded.

  • Passive assisted-braking devices, such as the Black Diamond ATC Pilot, Mammut Smart 2.0, and Edelrid Giga Jul, use braking geometry rather than a spring-loaded cam mechanism.

  • Regardless of device type, assisted braking does NOT replace proper brake-hand technique. The belayer must maintain control of the brake strand at all times.

• Recommended Belay Devices

  • Petzl GriGri

    • Our default recommendation for most climbers.

    • One of the most widely used cam-assisted braking devices in climbing.

    • Uses an internal cam mechanism that pinches the rope when properly loaded.

    • Excellent for lead belaying, top-rope belaying, and lowering.

    • Compact, durable, and relatively easy to operate once familiar with its handling characteristics.

    • Designed around right-hand brake-strand operation. Left-handed climbers should understand its handling limitations and proper technique before use.

    • Requires proper brake-hand technique at all times. Assisted braking does NOT make the device hands-free.

  • Edelrid PINCH

    • Premium cam-assisted braking device designed for lead climbing and top-rope belaying.

    • Uses a cam mechanism to provide assisted braking.

    • Offers several attachment and handling features designed to improve rope management and belay transitions.

    • An excellent alternative to the Petzl GriGri.

    • Requires familiarity with its specific operating procedures.

  • Black Diamond ATC Pilot

    • Excellent alternative to the GriGri, particularly for climbers who prefer a device without moving cam parts.

    • Uses passive assisted-braking geometry rather than a spring-loaded cam mechanism.

    • No moving cam parts, making it relatively simple and durable.

    • Accommodates both left- and right-handed belayers.

    • Excellent for lead and top-rope belaying.

    • Operates differently from cam-assisted devices such as the GriGri. Users must learn its specific feeding, braking, and lowering techniques.

    • Do not use this device for the first time on a lead climb with us. Practice and become proficient with it beforehand.

  • Mammut Smart 2.0

    • Passive assisted-braking device that uses braking geometry rather than an internal cam mechanism.

    • Designed for lead and top-rope belaying.

    • Relatively lightweight, compact, and straightforward once familiar with its operation.

    • Provides an assisted-braking function without the moving cam mechanism found in devices such as the GriGri.

    • Requires specific rope-feeding and lowering techniques that differ from traditional tube-style devices.

    • A good alternative for climbers who prefer a simple, lightweight assisted-braking device.

    • Requires continuous brake-hand control and proper belaying technique.

  • Black Diamond ATC Guide / Petzl Reverso

    • Lightweight, versatile tube-style devices with multiple applications in traditional and multi-pitch climbing.

    • Common uses include:

      • Rappelling with a single or double rope.

      • Belaying a leader.

      • Belaying one or two followers directly from an anchor (guide mode).

      • Multi-pitch climbing and rope management.

    • Can be used for a variety of climbing and rappelling configurations.

    • These devices do NOT provide assisted braking. They rely entirely on the belayer maintaining proper brake-hand technique and constant control of the rope.

    • Require greater attention and proficiency than assisted-braking devices.

    • Recommended only for climbers who are experienced with tube-style belaying and the specific techniques required for the intended application.

  • Edelrid Giga Jul

    • Hybrid belay device combining traditional tube-style functionality with an assisted-braking mode.

    • Provides passive assisted braking through braking geometry rather than a spring-loaded cam mechanism.

    • Can also be configured for rappelling and other traditional tube-device applications.

    • A versatile option for climbers who want multiple functions in one device.

    • Can feel somewhat clunky when feeding rope, lowering, and rappelling. Lowering and rappelling require managing the green release loop.

    • A sliding selector switches between assisted-braking and manual modes. This added complexity can cause confusion for inexperienced users.

    • Users must understand which mode the device is in and how to operate it correctly before climbing.