Embedded Files
Mount Rainier
Mount Rainier
The Ultimate Glacier Climb
The Mountains are Inherently Unpredictable and Unforgiving
The Mountains are Inherently Unpredictable and Unforgiving
Warning: Mountain Climbing requires special training and gear and is inherently dangerous.
We have Skilled and Experienced Youth and Adult Climbers in our Troop. If a climb is considered, a good amount of training must be completed prior to a summit attempt and only a select few Scouts and Adults will be able to attend.
If you are considering a Climb, consider taking a climbing course and using a Guide Service for your big adventure.
Do NOT Attempt Mountain Climbing without Properly Training for it or without Experienced Guides!
Do NOT Attempt Mountain Climbing without Properly Training for it or without Experienced Guides!
View of Mount Adams in the distance as we head back to Camp Muir
Mount Rainier
Mount Rainier
Mount Rainier looms in the distant background and draws many of us to climb it. This colossal volcano is the most heavily glaciated peak in the Lower 48 and serves as the ultimate high-altitude training ground for major global expeditions. Towering at 14,411 feet, the climb requires ascending over 9,000 vertical feet, demanding serious physical fitness, mountaineering skills, and endurance.
The ascent combines multiple extreme challenges that push climbers to their limits:
Massive Elevation Gain
Climbers gain around 9,000 feet over just a few miles (starting from Paradise at 5,400 feet up to the summit)
It requires steep ascents while carrying heavy packs
Those suseptable to High Altitidue Illness will be miserable and acsention can be deadly
Glacier Travel & Hazards
Rainier has over one cubic mile of glacial ice
Treks traverse heavily crevassed glaciers, requiring technical rope management, crampon and ice-ax use, and crevasse rescue skills
Extreme Weather
The mountain practically "invents its own storms"
Climbers can face anything from clear skies to blizzard-like conditions in a matter of hours
Training for the Giants
Because of its technical difficulty and unpredictable nature, Rainier is actively used as a primary training ground for higher, more dangerous peaks like Denali, K2, and Mount Everest
Strict Logistics
The climb requires formal permitting through the National Park Service
Attempting the peak carries inherent life-threatening risks, with changing icefalls and rockfalls year to year
Due to the extreme physical and technical demands, only about 50-60% of summit attempts are successful each year.
For Scouts, this may be the biggest adventure of their lifetime!
Mount Rainier is Dangerous
Mount Rainier is Dangerous
It is important that we are honest about the real risks of mountain climbing. There are many risks associated with remote wilderness travel and climbing glaciated mountains.
Mount Rainier is considered the deadliest mountain in the continetnal US. More people have died in this park than on Everest.
Do NOT Underestimate Rainier
Risks include and are not limited to:
Dangerous Terrain
Shifting Glaciers & Crevasses
Glaciers are constantly flowing, which causes deep cracks (crevasses) to open, close, or suddenly collapse
Climb Teams need to regularly reroute to find new, safe passages or lay ladders over impassable cracks
Melt-out & Unstable Ice
As the summer progresses, warm weather melts the protective snow covering glaciers and weakens "snow bridges"
Unstable areas of ice (like the notorious "Popcorn" section) may melt and force teams to blaze a completely new trail
Rock & Ice Hazards
When a specific section—like the Disappointment Cleaver—experiences heavy rockfall or ice-shedding, guides are forced to route climbers further uphill or around the hazard
Wilderness injuries
Falls
Ice Axe Injuries
Crampon Injuries
Hit by falling rock
Exposure from adverse weather
Being stranded and/or lost due to weather
Hypothermia from exposure
Falling off cliff or into crevasse due to poor visibility and exhaustion
High Altitude Illnesses
Mild illness will halt an expedition
Major illness can be lethal
Avalanches
Review these incident reports to get an idea of some of the events that have happened in the past
npshistory.com/morningreport/incidents/mora.htm - Mount Rainier
npshistory.com/morningreport/incidents/noca.htm - North Cascades
npshistory.com/morningreport/incidents/olym.htm - Olympic National Forest
Climb Team Preparation
Climb Team Preparation
Anyone interested in summitting Mount Rainier will need a significant amount or preparation to attempt this adventure.
Preparation:
Preparation:
Complete Basic Rock Climb training
Complete Rope Team training
Complete Glacier Travel training
Complete Crevasse Rescue training
Demonstrate adequate conditioning to summit the highest mountain in Washington State
Summitting Mount Rainier is difficult and dangerous. Because of this, you will NOT be added to a rope team unless you are ready.
Most Adults and Youth will NOT be able to meet the minimum requirements to summit by the summer. That's OK, as we will have other adventures, and those interested can continue their training and conditioning to prep for a summit a following year. The Mountain will still be there.
Participants should be able to ascend 1,500-2,000 feet per hour over several hours with a loaded pack prior to a climb adventure. Most peoples will require several months to properly prepare.
Mount Baker Train Up
Mount Baker Train Up
We highly recommend that you summit Mount Baker as a train up or as an alternative to Rainier. Mount Baker is the second most glaciated volcano in Washington State and is still a challenge. Compared to Mount Rainier:
Elevation & Sickness:
Mount Rainier has a high camp at Camp Muir (10,080 ft), which is where Baker's summit starts
Rainier's summit (14,411 ft) brings a high risk of altitude sickness
You are far less likley to develop severe High Altitude problems on Baker
Crevasses:
Rainier's glaciers are much longer and require passing larger, more active icefalls
Rockfall:
Rainier's Cleaver route is a steep rock spine you climb in the dark
Rainier's DC Climbers will need to dodge falling rocks and sliding ice
Baker's standard routes are mostly snow
Weather:
Both mountains are very dangerous in a blizzard
Rainier is taller, so it generates faster, more severe storms and can produce winds that will knock you down
Climb Team Leadership
Climb Team Leadership
Any summit attempt on this or any other glaciated mountian required properly trained and experienced adult leads. You should NOT attempt to summit Rainier or any other significant peak without adequate leaders.
What you don't know will get you killed on The Mountian.
What you don't know will get you killed on The Mountian.
If you would really like to climb Rainier, consider hiring a qualified guide to train up and lead your group to the summit.
Clmbing Priorities
Clmbing Priorities
Stay Safe - this trumps everything that follows
Get back to Cars
Have a good time
Summit
Only about 50% who attempt to summit Rainier will Summit. There are so many reasons that your group will need to or should turn around. It is better to turn around than to die on the Mountian. It will still be there the following year for another attempt.
Rainier Routes
Rainier Routes
There are 2 main routes to consider
Emmons
Disappointment Cleaver
You can switch between the two if conditions on your primary route becomes problematic
Lost snow bridges
Blue Ice
Crevasse issues
NOTE that specific routes on Glaciers change year by year and throughout the year. Climb teams must be able to reroute or turn back as needed.
Other routes, such as the Kautz Glacier and Liberty Ridge Routes, can be considered after you have summited Emmons and/or DC AND have leveled up your skills. Emmons and Disappointment Cleaver are already pushing the limits of what you can accomplish without years of mountaineering experience.
Route Briefs
Route Briefs
Route briefs are official in-depth descriptions of climbing routes on Mount Rainier. Use the Route Briefs to familiarize yourself with these four popular routes. Produced by the climbing rangers, they contain the information needed for planning your climb, including route statistics, common pit-falls, and some of the climbing history of the route.
- Rainier/Emmons Glacier
Compared to Disappointment Cleaver option
Longer heavily glaciated route
Offers far more solitude and is remote wilderness
Requires complete, independent glacier travel and route-finding skills
Length: 17.4 miles
Elevation gain: 10,262 feet
Days: 2-3
Technical/Strenuous: 5/5
Breakdown
Trailhead to Camp 6-8 hours, 5,100 feet
White River Campground to Glacier Basin: 3.5 miles, gaining 1,535 feet
Glacier Basin to Inter Glacier Base: 1 mile, gaining 1,065 feet
Inter Glacier to Camp Schurman: (High Camp): 1.5-2 miles, gaining 2,500 feet
Camp to Summit: 5-8 hours, 4,900 feet
Camp Schurman to Summit: (Columbia Crest): ~3-3.5 miles, gaining 4,911 feet
Summit to Camp: 3-4 hours
Camp to Trailhead: 3-4 hours
- Rainier/Disappointment Cleaver
Mount Rainier’s most popular, guided standard route
Has established camps, shoveled paths, and fixed aids like ladders
Length: 15-17 miles
Elevation gain: 8,790 feet
Days: 2-3
Technical/Strenuous: 5/5
Breakdown
Trailhead to Camp 6-8 hours, 4,460 feet
Paradise to Camp Muir: Roughly 5 miles (one-way), gaining 4,660 feet
Camp Muir to Ingraham Flats: About 0.5 to 1 mile (one-way), gaining 1,000+ feet
Camp to Summit 5-8 hours, 4,330 feet
Ingraham Flats to Summit (via DC): Around 2 to 2.5 miles
Summit to Camp 2-3 hours
Camp to Trailhead 2-3 hours
The Route and Itinerary Plan - Emmons-Winthrop Glacier Route
The Route and Itinerary Plan - Emmons-Winthrop Glacier Route
See Emmons Winthrop Routebrief 2017
Review Weather Matrix
Trailhead logistics and parking
White River Campground
Parking: 46.9021, -121.6420
Maps and Navigation
Paper Maps
Limited use during whiteout
USGS Mt Rainier East
USGS Sunrise
Green Trails Mt Rainier East No. 270
GPS
MUST be downloaded for offline use
Schurman to Summit gaiagps.com/hike/361/mount-rainier-via-emmons-glacier-route
Trailhead to Summit caltopo.com/m/411L
Rainier - Emmons Glacier
2025 GPX Files - Public Google Drive
rainier_emmons.gpx
Rainier/Emmons Glacier Route overview and key milestones
Compared to Disappointment Cleaver option
Longer heavily glaciated route
Offers far more solitude and is remote wilderness
Requires complete, independent glacier travel and route-finding skills
Length: 17.4 miles
Elevation gain: 10,262 feet
Days: 2-3
Technical/Strenuous: 5/5
Milestones
White River Campground is at 4,400 ft
Glacier Basin is around 5,900 feet
Camp Curtis is around 8,685 feet
Camp Schurman is around 9,500 feet
Mount Rainier's summit is at 14,410 feet
Day-by-day plan:
Itinerary options:
Trailhead to Schurman to Summit to Rest Day to Trailhead
Trailhead to Schurman to Rest Day to Summit to Trailhead
Highly recommend that you spend at least 1 full day at camp to help acclimate prior to a summit attempt
2 days at 10,000 feet or higher is recommended prior to a summit attempt
Seattle to Trailhead Drive 2 hours
Trailhead to Camp 6-8 hours, 5,100 feet
White River Campground to Glacier Basin: 3.5 miles, gaining 1,535 feet
Glacier Basin to Inter Glacier Base: 1 mile, gaining 1,065 feet
Inter Glacier to Camp Schurman (High Camp): 1.5-2 miles, gaining 2,500 feet
Camp to Summit 5-8 hours, 4,900 feet
Camp Schurman to Summit (Columbia Crest): ~3-3.5 miles, gaining 4,911 feet
Summit to Camp 3-4 hours
Camp to Trailhead 3-4 hours
The Route and Itinerary Plan - Disappointment Cleaver / Ingraham Glacier Route
The Route and Itinerary Plan - Disappointment Cleaver / Ingraham Glacier Route
See Disappointment-Cleaver-Routebrief-2017
Review Weather Matrix
Trailhead logistics and parking
Paradise - Overnight Parking
Arrive early in the morning, otherwise you could be waiting for hours and still not get a parking spot
Avoid weekends and holidays is at all possible
Maps and Navigation
Paper Maps
Limited use during whiteout
USGS Mt Rainier East
USGS Sunrise
Green Trails Mt Rainier East No. 270
GPS
MUST be downloaded for offline use
Paradise to Camp Muir gaiagps.com/hike/444003/camp-muir-via-disappointment-cleaver-route-and-pebble-creek-trail
Pardise to Summit gaiagps.com/hike/381397/mount-rainier-via-disappointment-cleaver-route-and-pebble-creek-trail
Trailhead to Summit caltopo.com/m/5FK4
Rainier - Diss Cleaver
2025 GPX Files - Public Google Drive
rainier_dc.gpx
Rainier/DC Glacier Route overview and key milestones
Mount Rainier’s most popular, guided standard route
Has established camps, shoveled paths, and fixed aids like ladders
Length: 15-17 miles
Elevation gain: 8,790 feet
Days: 2-3
Technical/Strenuous: 5/5
Breakdown
Trailhead to Camp 6-8 hours, 4,460 feet
Paradise to Camp Muir: Roughly 5 miles (one-way), gaining 4,660 feet
Camp Muir to Ingraham Flats: About 0.5 to 1 mile (one-way), gaining 1,000+ feet
Camp to Summit 5-8 hours, 4,330 feet
Ingraham Flats to Summit (via DC): Around 2 to 2.5 miles
Summit to Camp 2-3 hours
Camp to Trailhead 2-3 hours
Milestones
Paradise is at 5,420 feet
Panorama Point is at 6,800 feet
Pebble Creek is at 7,200 feet
Camp Muir is at 10,188 feet
Ingraham Glacier starts at 10,500 feet
Bottom of the Cleaver is around 11,100 feet
Top of the Cleaver is at 12,300 feet
Mount Rainier's summit is at 14,410 feet
Day-by-day plan:
Itinerary options:
Trailhead to Muir to Summit to Rest Day to Trailhead
Trailhead to Muir to Rest Day to Summit to Trailhead
Highly recommend that you spend at least 1 full day at camp to help acclimate prior to a summit attempt
2 days at 10,000 feet or higher is recommended prior to a summit attempt
Camp Options
Generally people camp at Camp Muir 10,188 feet
Ranger Station, restrooms, sit platforms for sunbathing
Alternate base - Muir Snowfield (just below Camp Muir)
Alternate base - Ingraham Flats (just above Cathedral Rocks Ridge) 11,100-11,200 feet
About and additional 0.5 to 1 mile (one-way), gaining 1,000+ feet
Camping here can be used for help with altitude acclimation
Seattle to Trailhead Drive 2.5 hours
Trailhead to Camp 6-8 hours, 4,460 feet
Hike from Paradise (5,420 ft)
Use Skyline Trail and follow obvious trail
Panorama Point (6,800 ft) at 2.5 mi
Route continues over Pebble Creek (7,200 ft)
Up Muir Snowfield
Compass bearings
350° true north from Pebble Creek to Moon Rock
344° from Moon Rocks to Camp Muir
Reverse compass bearings are 170° and 164°
Camp Muir (10,080 ft), 2.7 mi from Panorama Point
Camp to Summit 5-8 hours, 4,330 feet
Camp to Cleaver
From Camp Muir follow obvious traverse of the upper Cowlitz
Scramble the Cathedral Rocks Ridge to gain access to the Ingraham Glacier (10,500 ft)
Traverse the glacier (Ingraham Flats) to the lower southern base of Disappointment Cleaver
This traverse should be done as quickly as possible due to overhanging seracs
The route onto the Cleaver is approximately 300 ft above the Cleaver's nose
Continue to the top of the Cleaver (12,300 ft)
BEWARE of Rockfall Danger on the Cleaver after June
Cleaver to Summit
Climb as directly to the east crater rim as crevasses will allow
Scramble down into the crater and cross directly to the west crater rim
The summit register is just below and northeast of the true summit (14,411 ft) by a large boulder
Summit to Camp 2-3 hours
Camp to Trailhead 2-3 hours
Ingraham Direct Route
In the winter (December through April) you should avoid the Cleaver by going directly from the Cathedral Gap up the Ingraham Glacier towards the summit
Becomes uncrossable in May when the crevasses open up
The exact path changes from year to year
This route is beyond the ability of MOST Youth Groups
Basic Logistics
Basic Logistics
Group Logistics:
Group Logistics:
Permits
Annual Climbing Cost Recovery Fee
Every climber must pay this fee
Valid for the whole calendar year
Cost: $82 per person
Where to buy: pay.gov
Climbing/Wilderness Permit
Secures your specific climb date and your overnight camps (such as Camp Muir)
Reservations:
Available for dates between late May and early October on Recreation.gov.
You can also try for an Early Access Lottery in late winter
Walk-Ups: About 30-40% of permits are held for in-person, walk-up registration
Obtained at a Wilderness Information Center up to 24 hours before your climb
Paradise
Longmire
White River Wilderness Information Center
Off-Season:
For climbs between October and April, you do not need an advance reservation
Pay your fee and self-register at the Paradise Old Ranger Station
Park Entrance Fee
America the Beautiful Pass
Free to US Military Veterans
Vehicle Fee: $30 per vehicle (valid for 7 days)
Walk/Bike/Motorcycle Fee: Ranges from $15 to $25
Who all is participating in the activity
Maximum Group Size: 12 climbers per team
Affiliated groups must camp and travel at least one mile apart
Team strengths, experience levels, and considerations
Adult Lead
Medical Lead
Highly recommended that you bring a medical provider with knowledge of High Altitude Illness and Wilderness Medicine
Rope Leads
Youth Lead
Other Climbers - ideally summited Mount Baker or equivalent
Gear distribution and shared equipment assignments
Poorly managing this leads to delays and gear left behind
Rope Teams
Team 1
Team 2
Team 3
Team 4
You should ideally have 2 or more teams
One team can assist the second team as needed
Significantly increases safety margins for rescue
2 vs 1 rope team has minimal and acceptable impact on travel speed
Rope teams need to have 3 or more climbers
Two man teams are too risky
Low Stopping Power:
A three-person team provides more body weight and friction (braking power) to stop a sudden fall
A team of two relies entirely on just one person's ability to self-arrest
The "Weight of the Load":
If your partner falls into a deep crevasse, you must build a secure anchor and hold their entire body weight while dangling over the lip
This is physically grueling and requires elite anchor-building skills
No Extra Hands:
With a larger team, one person can manage the rope while the others prepare rescue gear (like a 3:1 or 6:1 pulley system)
In a two-person team, the single remaining climber must do everything themselves
2 4-person rope teams is better than 3 rope teams of 3 and 2 climbers
Rope Spacing
Depends on crevasse size
Alaska and Himalayas need greater distance
In PNW, we generally use the “10 Minus Equation"
10 minus the number of climbers = arm spans between climbers
Arm spans is about 6 feet or 1.8 meters
3 climbers will need 7 arm spans between climbers
Minimum rope length of 50m
Primary rescue method: “Drop Loop C” 2:1
Least experienced climber in the middle
4 climbers will need 6 arm spans between climbers
Minimum rope length of 50m
Primary rescue method: “Drop Loop C” 2:1
2 climbers will need 8 arm spans between climbers plus extra for brake knots
Minimum rope length of 60m (more rescue rope length needed)
Primary rescue method: help from other rope team or "Z Drag” 3:1 and know how to work around brake knots
6-7 arms spans is about the max length for communication between climbers
Many recommend a max of 10 meters between climbers
Transportation and carpool considerations
Up to 12 people plus gear
Communication plan and emergency contacts
Rocky Talkies x12?
inReach x2+
Other Logistics:
Gear check and final readiness
Turnaround and Pacing Plan
Turnaround and Pacing Plan
Turnaround times and decision points
Always begin your summit bid with a firm "turnaround time" in mind, and immediately turn back if you experience any of the following factors:
10:00 AM Rule: Do not push higher if you are not safely on pace to summit and descend before the sun makes the snow unstable.
Depending on the speed of your team and snow conditions, you may decided on an 8:00 AM turn around
Deteriorating Weather:
If severe winds, heavy precipitation, or zero-visibility "lenticular clouds" build up on the summit, turn around
Equipment Failure or Group Fatigue:
If any member of your rope team is injured, showing signs of severe exhaustion, or experiencing frostbite/hypothermia
Unsafe Glacier Conditions:
If rising daytime temperatures cause snow bridges to degrade or expose uncrossable crevasses
Sick and Injured
Do NOT leave an exhausted or injured climber behind in a sleeping bag to be picked up later
Either continue to summit with everyone or turn around as a team
Splitting ropes teams is a possible option, depending on circumstances
Pacing and Breaks
In the past, certain guide companies moved at an intense pace
Client demographics were different back then - more seasoned outdoorsman and athletes
Guides in the past were famously tough and pushed clients to an intense level
This was an expected norm
NOTE: older Mountaineers may be used to and expect an insane pace
Intense pace may have been used to weed out clients who were less likely to summit
This is a nasty approach to reduce liability
RMI and AAI now use a slower, structured pacing
American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) became the guiding industry norm in the United States in 2022
AMGA emphasized structured pacing and strict heart rate zone benchmarks over speed
Pace is slow, steady and, most importantly, consistent
A slower but consistent pace is often faster than a fast pace
A slower pace allows for less frequent and shorter rest breaks
A quick pace wears out slower paced climbers, resulting in more frequent and longer breaks
Pace Examples:
Mountaineers Mount Si Conditioner
3,150 feet in 2 hours
Target Conditioning Pace (per RMI)
1,500-2,000 vertical feet per hour
Rainier Pace per RMI:
A good rule of thumb is that for a Rainier climb, we average about 1000 vertical feet per hour as our target pace.
Rainier Pace per AAI:
Climbers must be able to climb at a rate of 1,000 vertical feet per hour. Those who are unable to maintain this pace on Day 1 to Camp Muir may not be permitted to attempt the summit on the final day.
Water Plan
Water Plan
Water resources and resupply considerations
Giardia is the main concern in the PNW
Giardia has been found in water sources as high as 11,000 feet
Hoary Marmots thrive at elevations of up to 7,500 feet on Mount Rainier
Camp Schurman (9,500 feet) is above where marmots live, but snow and snowmelt can be contaminated with human waste
Camp Muir (10,188 feet) is above where marmots live but is pretty trampled on
Assume that climbers have walked on, peed on, and spit on the snow - choose your snow carefully
Safest Approach: Boil or filter ALL water consumed
Boiling kills everything but takes a lot of fuel and time
This is the most dependable and recommend method of of treating water
Water boils at approximately 90°C (194°F) at 10,000 feet
You can NOT pour boiling hot water in SmartWater bottle - it will shrivel up and likely taint water with chemicals
Filters can be used in the summer, but needs to be protected from freezing
Freezing of filters will permanently damage them
Do NOT boil filters - that also damages them
Store filter in ziplock bag in sleeping bag at night to prevent freezing
Filtering water can speed up water treatment and save fuel
Use boiling as a backup option of filter freezes
NOTE that filtering doesn't filter out viruses - choose snow carefully
Climbers have spit, peeped blew their noses on snow at campsites
Risky Approach: just melt the snow and drink it
Giardia can present in 1 day, but usually takes a week or more
High Altitude
Many will risk drinking melt water at high altitude
Low risk of Giardia - and if contracted can be treated after you return home
Choose snow wisely as climber can also bring bacteria, viruses and other nasties
NOT an ideal approach for youth
Lower camps
Real risk of Giardia - water should be boiled or filtered
Compromised Approach: snowmelt and chemical tabs
Use fuel to melt water
Use chemical tabs to treat Bacteria and Viruses brough by other climbers
Ensure you double your treatment times for cold water (at least an hour)
This method does NOT protect against Giardia
Treating Giardia in cold water may require 8 hours of waiting
Chemical Tab Examples:
Katadyn Micropur
Chlorine Dioxide (ClO₂)
Aquatabs
Sodium Dichloroisocyanurate (NaDCC)
Better Value
High Tech Approach: SteriPen
A SteriPen is supposed to treat Giardia, Bacteria and Viruses
Safety & Risk Management:
Safety & Risk Management:
Weather forecast and contingencies
Mount Rainier Emmons Route Weather Picker:
Trailhead - White River Campground
Steamboat Prow (by Camp Schurman)
Summit Mount Rainier
Mount Rainier Disappointment Cleaver Weather Picker:
Trailhead - Paradise
Camp Muir
Summit Mount Rainier
Terrain hazards and current conditions
Hidden crevasses
Thin snow bridges
Common, particularly around Camp Schurman and the upper Corridor
Steep icy slopes
Overhead hazards
Icefall
Collapsing seracs and shifting snow
Avalanches
Rockfall
Especially during the approach via the Inter Glacier and when moving near Little Tahoma
Unpredictable alpine weather
Whiteouts
Precipitation
High winds
Altitude sickness
Acclimation plan
Stagged ascent?
Acetazolamide?
Volcanic hazards
Eruption
Lahars
Mudflows
Unlikely
Sun protection
Sunglasses
Category 4 lenses (< 8-12% visible light) and side shields
Nose Shield
Optional and highly recommended
Sun Shirt
Ideally sun hoody
Pants
NOT shorts
Sunscreen (SPF 50)
Badger Adventure Sport Mineral Sunscreen (SPF 50)
REI
Fred Myers
All Good Sunscreen Butter (SPF 50+)
Fred Myers
Thinksport Clear Zinc Sunscreen (SPF 50)
REI
Costco
Sun Bum Mineral Face Stick (SPF 50)
REI
Costco
Lip Balm (SPF 30+)
Badger SPF 15 Mineral Sunscreen Lip Balm
REI
Aquaphor Lip Repair + Protect SPF 30
Sun Bum SPF 30 Lip Balm
Medical considerations within the group
High Altitude Illness
Allergies
Asthma
Diabetes
Seizures
Emergency procedures
Food & Hydration:
Food & Hydration:
Group meals and cooking plan
Each member packs
2x freeze dried dinner
2x freeze dried breakfast or oatmeal
3x bags of daily lunch/snacks
Group Food
Cocoa
Coffee
Summit Treat?
Water treatment and water sources
Discuss Filter option
Ideal for filtering out nasties
Damaged if frozen
HIGH RISK where we are going
Chemical Tabs
Some benefit - bacteria and viruses
NO benefit for Giardia
Boiling everything
Will need extra fuel
Extra time to boil and cool
Boiling hot water will damage water bottles
Steripen
Require batteries and can be damaged
Most people don't have these
Gear
Gear
Refer to separate Climbing Gear Section
Clothes:
Fleece Hat
Balaclava/Bandana (winter/summer)
Sunglasses
Category 4 lenses (< 8-12% visible light) and side shields
Goggles (winter)
Dexterous Thinner Gloves
SHOWA 282-02 TEMRES PU Coated gloves
Insulated Warmer Gloves/Mittens
Hooded Base Layer
Softshell/Fleece Mid Layer
Waterproof Hooded Shell
Insulated Jacket w/ Hood
Softshell Pants
Waterproof Pants
Insulated Pants
2 x Socks (non-cotton)
Mountaineering Boots
Climbing Harness:
Harness
Belay & Rappel Device
ATC Guide or similar
Single Alpine Sling
Double Alpine Sling
Personal Anchor
Can also be a 2nd Double Alpine Sling
Pulley
Ideally Micro Traxion Pulley
Carabiners
1 triple locker
3x additional locking
3x nonlocking
2x Prussiks
5-6mm loops
one can be replaced with Petzl Tibloc
Cordelette
Personal Gear:
Backpack
Ice Axe w/ Leash
Crampons
Helmet
Headlamp (full charge)
Must fit on helmet
Picket
Ice Screw
Water Bottles
You need about 2-3 liters of water for the summit push
1 should be Nalgene style to allow for boiling water
NOTE: tubes for hydration bladders tend to freeze
Water Treatment
Can be chemical tabs, bleach, filter, UV pen, etc. depending on approach
Food
2x freeze dried dinner
2x freeze dried breakfast or oatmeal
3x bags of daily lunch/snacks
Cookware
Long handled spoon
Mug - multipurpose tool
Hot brew
Snow scooper
Can be used for oatmeal if you don't have a bowl
Used for electrolyte, energy and recovery drinks
Multi-tool
GPS w/ Topo Map Loaded
Sleeping Pad
Sleeping Bag
Personal First Aid Kit
Prescriptions/Medications
Sunscreen
Sunscreen (SPF 50)
Badger Adventure Sport Mineral Sunscreen (SPF 50)
All Good Sunscreen Butter (SPF 50+)
Thinksport Clear Zinc Sunscreen (SPF 50)
Sun Bum Mineral Face Stick (SPF 50)
Lip Balm (SPF 30+)
Badger SPF 15 Mineral Sunscreen Lip Balm
Aquaphor Lip Repair + Protect SPF 30
Sun Bum SPF 30 Lip Balm
Hygiene kit
Toothbrush
Toothpaste
Foss is nice
Bluebag Kit
Blue Bag
Paper Towels
Hand Sanitizer
Phone with tether
Group Gear:
Ropes
Shovel
Stove, Lighter, Fuel
1 set for 2-3 people
Tent
1 per 3 people
Med Kit
Resources
Resources
Disappointment Cleaver Routebrief 2017
mountaineers.org - mount-rainier-disappointment-cleaver
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