The Ultimate Glacier Climb
Warning: Mountain Climbing requires special training and gear and is inherently dangerous.
We have Skilled and Experienced Youth and Adult Climbers in our Troop. If a climb is considered, a good amount of training must be completed prior to a summit attempt and only a select few Scouts and Adults will be able to attend.
If you are considering a Climb, consider taking a climbing course and using a Guide Service for your big adventure.
Mount Rainier looms in the distant background and draws many of us to climb it. This collosal volcano is the most heavily glaciated peak in the Lower 48 and serves as the ultimate high-altitude training ground for major global expeditions. Towering at 14,411 feet, the climb requires ascending over 9,000 vertical feet, demanding serious physical fitness, mountaineering skills, and endurance.
The ascent combines multiple extreme challenges that push climbers to their limits:
Massive Elevation Gain
Climbers gain around 9,000 feet over just a few miles (starting from Paradise at 5,400 feet up to the summit)
It requires steep ascents while carrying heavy packs
Glacier Travel & Hazards
Rainier has over one cubic mile of glacial ice
Treks traverse heavily crevassed glaciers, requiring technical rope management, crampon and ice-ax use, and crevasse rescue skills
Extreme Weather
The mountain practically "invents its own storms"
Climbers can face anything from clear skies to blizzard-like conditions in a matter of hours
Training for the Giants
Because of its technical difficulty and unpredictable nature, Rainier is actively used as a primary training ground for higher, more dangerous peaks like Denali, K2, and Mount Everest
Strict Logistics
The climb requires formal permitting through the National Park Service
Attempting the peak carries inherent life-threatening risks, with changing icefalls and rockfalls year to year
Due to the extreme physical and technical demands, only about 50-60% of summit attempts are successful each year.
For Scouts, this may be the biggest adventure of their lifetime!
Rainier/Emmons Glacier
Compared to Disappointment Cleaver option
Longer heavily glaciated route
Offers far more solitude and is remote wilderness
Requires complete, independent glacier travel and route-finding skills
Length: 17.4 miles
Elevation gain: 10,262 feet
Days: 2-3
Technical/Strenuous: 5/5
Breakdown
Trailhead to Camp 6-8 hours, 5,100 feet
White River Campground to Glacier Basin: 3.5 miles, gaining 1,535 feet
Glacier Basin to Inter Glacier Base: 1 mile, gaining 1,065 feet
Inter Glacier to Camp Schurman (High Camp): 1.5-2 miles, gaining 2,500 feet
Camp to Summit 5-8 hours, 4,900 feet
Camp Schurman to Summit (Columbia Crest): ~3-3.5 miles, gaining 4,911 feet
Summit to Camp 3-4 hours
Camp to Trailhead 3-4 hours
Rainier/Disappointment Cleaver
Mount Rainier’s most popular, guided standard route
Has established camps, shoveled paths, and fixed aids like ladders
Length: 15-17 miles
Elevation gain: 8,790 feet
Days: 2-3
Technical/Strenuous: 5/5
Breakdown
Trailhead to Camp 6-8 hours, 4,460 feet
Paradise to Camp Muir: Roughly 5 miles (one-way), gaining 4,660 feet
Camp Muir to Ingraham Flats: About 0.5 to 1 mile (one-way), gaining 1,000+ feet
Camp to Summit 5-8 hours, 4,330 feet
Ingraham Flats to Summit (via DC): Around 2 to 2.5 miles
Summit to Camp 2-3 hours
Camp to Trailhead 2-3 hours
Scouts interested in summitting Mount Rainier will need a significant amount or preparation to attempt this adventure.
Complete Basic Rock Climb training
Complete Rope Team training
Complete Glacier Travel training
Complete Crevasse Rescue training
Demonstrate adequate conditioning to summit the highest mountain in Washington State
Summitting Mount Rainier is difficult and dangerous. Because of this, you will NOT be added to a rope team unless you are ready.
Most Adults and Younger Scouts will NOT be able to meet the minimum requirements to summit by the summer. That's OK, as we will have other adventures, and those interested can continue their training and conditioning to prep for a summit a following year. The Mountain will still be there.
Your team should have an adult medical lead with at least Wilderness First Responder training, and ideally and Expedition Medical Provider.
Listed below is a list of several medical concerns that need to be considered and plan for. References to practice guidelines for Hypothermia, Frostbite, High Altitude Illness and Avalanche Accidents are also included. These references should be reviewed by all Adult Leads.
Both Hypothermia and High-Altitude Illness symptoms can be very subtle and difficult to identify early on. That said, identifying and treating them early on can save the expedition or possibly a life. The more eyes we have on our participants, the safer the group will be.
References:
BICO card – excellent course that used to be free
Concern: Sudden weather changes and unplanned or prolonged stops increase the risk of hypothermia. Early stages of hypothermia are not life threatening but will impact the victim’s ability to care for themselves. This can slow travel and increase the risk of exposure, falling and other injuries. Later stages of hypothermia are more problematic and will necessitate carrying out the victim and can threaten the safety of the rest of the group.
We have seen plenty of youth attend training with worn out or inadequate boots and clothing.
Mitigation:
Ensure all participants pack proper clothing
Consider gear check prior to loading vehicles
Ensure participants pack enough food
Avoid overheating (sweating) and overcooling
Frequent group checks and opportunities to quickly layer up or down
Emergency Gear - Summit Gear should include:
1 sleeping bag
1 foam sleeping pad
1 tarp
1 stove (with fuel and pot)
Satellite Messenger
Monitor Weather
Know when to turn around or hunker down
Traveling up a steep mountain in the middle of summer can be a whole lot hotter than you might think. Add on extra clothing that you started your climb in, you have a recipe for Heat Exhaustion.
Mitigation:
Monitor group
Observe for signs of Heat Illness
Allow stops to adjust layers
Ensure proper hydration
Risk of High-Altitude Illness is mostly based on Genetics. Physical fitness and the drive to succeed will help you summit but will not protect you from becoming a victim. You are either born for High Altitude, or you are not. Most of us will be fine on Rainier, some will need more time to acclimate, and some people won’t be able to ascend safely without oxygen.
Ascending past 8,000 feet frequently leads to Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), presenting as severe headaches, nausea, and shortness of breath. High-Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) and High-Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) are less common but are life threatening and can also occur above 8,000 feet. Ignored, AMS can progress to HACE. Untreated, HAPE and HACE are fatal in 50% of cases and death can occur within 12 hours.
Identifying High-Altitude Illness early on allows you a chance to prevent progression and safe a life.
Rainier/Emmons Glacier Elevations:
White River Campground is at 4,400 ft
Glacier Basin is around 5,900 feet
Camp Curtis is around 8,685 feet
Camp Schurman is around 9,500 feet
Mount Rainier's summit is at 14,410 feet
Rainier/Disappointment Cleaver Elevations:
Paradise is at 5,400 feet
Camp Muir is at 10,188 feet
Ingraham Flats camp on Mount Rainier 11,100 feet (up to 11,400 depending on snow conditions)
Mount Rainier's summit is at 14,410 feet
Mitigation:
Medical provider on team
Leaders review High Altitude Illness Guidelines
Observe participants for changes in breathing and mentation
HALT ascent if signs of AMS
Descend if signs of neurological (HACE) or breathing (HAPE) problems
Persistent vomiting
Wet/rattling coughs
Confusion
Stumbling
aka ataxia
Bad sign!
Delays in evacuation will require carry out and is potentially fatal
Consideration for use of Acetazolamide (brand name Diamox) to hasten acclimation
Talk to travel med provider prior to trip
Generally started the night before ascent
Adults: 125 mg every 12 h
Peds: 1.25 mg·kg−1·dose−1 (maximum, 125 mg·dose−1) every 12 h
Staged Ascent
Studies suggest that a 2 day stay at 3,000m ( 9,800’) is effective at preventing AMS to 4,300 m (14,100’)
Longer stays suggested by other studies
This is often shortened for Rainier
Shorter timeline due to easy access to mountain
Summit often completed in 2 days
Although common – a 2-day plan is NOT the safest approach
Rational
HACE and HAPE are rare
By the time you develop HACE or HAPE, you are hopefully already descending
You can get more clients up the mountain with a shorter timeline
Dehydration leads to losses in performance. Moderate dehydration increases the risk of heat and cold injures and can stop the group in its tracks. Severe dehydration or dehydration combined with HACE is life threatening.
You lose more water than you think on the mountain
Lost through breathing
Drier air
Faster breathing due to decrease in oxygen pressure
Increased urination
Your body dumps bicarbonate in urine to help body with high altitude acclimation – this makes you pee a lot
Possible increase in urination due to cold
Lower thirst response at high altitude
We have witnessed youth NOT refilling water bottles with snowmelt and only relying on the water the brought with them from home. 2 liters is NOT enough water to safely summit Rainier. Proper hydration will require a water resupply plan.
Mitigation:
1 stove per 2-3 participants
Allows for adequate melting of snow
Don’t forget fuel, pot, and platform (3mm plywood is fine)
2 bottles of water
One should be Nalgene (maybe Tritan) to allow of hot/boiling water
Many bottles will warp and leach out chemicals if filled with hot water
Discuss and ensure proper hydration with participants
Water Purification:
Great debate on the best way to approach this on the mountain
May need a different plan for glacier and for lower camp
Melt/boil at high altitude
Filter at low altitude
Snowmelt
Many people drink snowmelt without issue
Avoid areas where people walk/camp/use the bathroom
Use just enough fuel in stove to melt snow – minimize fuel used
Find and collect water that is naturally melting in the sun
Leave water in black garbage bag during the day
Some risk of illness
Giardia is the main threat – some opt to risk becoming ill and hope symptoms will start AFTER end of adventure
Melted water on glacier less likely to cause illness
Melted water at lower elevations more risky
Boiling Water
Kills everything in water
Safe to drink
Uses a lot of fuel
Needs to be cooled before placing in most bottles
Filter
Filters out Giardia and Cryptosporidium and bacteria
Does not filter out viruses – generally not an issue here
Great for treating water in lower altitudes
Filters will freeze solid if they get cold enough
Can’t filter water if filter is frozen
Ice will permanently damage filter filaments
NOTE: do NOT run boiling hot water through filter
This will likely damage the filter
It is a waste of fuel – instead, filter snowmelt or warm water only
Chemical Treatment
NOT very effective against Giardia, especially when water is cold
Should NOT be a major issue on glacier
Problematic at lower camps
NOT effective against Cryptosporidium
Should NOT be a major issue on glacier
Problematic from water sources with waterfowl or human bathing/swimming
Can treat bacteria and viruses from snowmelt
Wait time required to be effective
Need to double wait time with cold water – plan for an hour for bacteria and viruses
Wait time for Giardia and Cryptosporidium is unrealistic
Allows you to adequately treat most water on glacier without using up too much fuel
SteriPen
Uses UV light
Supposed to treat Protozoa (Giardia), Bacteria and Viruses
Requires use of internal batteries
Expensive
Bulb can shatter
Seattle people are often not optimized for full sunlight at altitude. Snow can reflect 90% of sunlight back at you. Sunglasses reflect light back at your nose. Few are ready for a double dose of solar radiation.
Proper protection from sun is needed:
Long sleeve shirts and pants
Sun hoodies are nice
Glacier glasses
Snow blindness is painful and can stop the group
Ideally Category 4 lenses (< 8-12% visible light) and side shields
Group should bring extra set in case one gets lost
Emergency ones can be made from duct tape
Sunscreen
Badger Adventure Sport Mineral Sunscreen (SPF 50)
All Good Sunscreen Butter (SPF 50+)
Thinksport Clear Zinc Sunscreen (SPF 50)
Sun Bum Mineral Face Stick (SPF 50)
Lip Balm
Aquaphor Lip Repair + Protect SPF 30
Sun Bum SPF 30 Lip Balm
Nose shield is not a bad idea
Falls and other injuries are always a possibility.
In the past, a participant didn’t bring crampons. This makes glacier travel too dangerous and will result in the team canceling the trip or sending that participant home.
Mitigation:
Safe climbing practices
Appropriate gear
Helmets
Climbing gear
Alpine axe and possibly poles
Crampons
Medical training
First Aid Kits
Consider use of gaiters to reduce risk of injury when crampons are used
They also protect your expensive pants from being cut open
Mitigation:
Avalanche training
Review guidelines in case the worst happens
Each of our participants moves optimally at a different speed and forcing slower participants to move at a faster rate may be counterproductive. Over pacing climbers can lead to the need for more frequent and long rest breaks as well as exhaustion. A slower pace is often faster and more sustainable than a rapid pace.
Exhaustion is often confused with High Altitude Illnesses. High Altitude Illnesses often necessitate descent and evacuation from the mountain. Avoiding exhaustion may prevent an unnecessary end to the trip.
In the past, we have seen participants not bring food and other unable to keep up with the group due to differences in conditioning.
Pace:
The group must set a pace that works for the entire team
If a participant is unable to maintain a reasonable pace, they threaten the safety of the entire team
Slow paces and excessive breaks will result in increased exposure on the mountain and increased risk to the entire team
Mitigation:
Ensure participants pack appropriate amounts of food and water
Meals and snacks are vital for performance
Proper hydration is vital for performance
Monitor pace
Not too fast – monitor group
Not too slow – avoid getting cold or expending extra energy moving painfully slow
Inspect gear carried – avoid unnecessary weight
Distribute weight appropriately
Some can carry more than others
Monitor group
Drink and snack at breaks
Participants should bring and know how to use blue bags. This helps protect the water others will drink later.
What to bring
Ziplock freezer bag and possibly a poop tube
Blue bag kit
Paper towels
Hold up MUCH better the TP
Hand sanitizer
Matrix per See Emmons Winthrop Routebrief 2017
Use the following matrix to help decide whether to attempt to climb after referencing the forecast. As always, choose to turn back if the weather looks to be deteriorating. It is also well known that forecasts can be unreliable, but they are what we have to go on.
Start by going down the gray column on the left. First assess the wind component at either 1, 2, or 3. Then proceed to the precipitation component, add 1 or 3 to your running total. Add all the factors from the four rows. Consider the Emmons-Winthrop a moderately difficult route. You can see from the matrix below that precipitation and visibility can be show stoppers, even if the winds and temperatures are reasonable.
On the lower mountain, below 10,000’, these weather factors can often be mitigated by equipment and exceptional experience, however, there are far narrower margins of error. On the upper mountain (above 10,000’) the loss of a glove or getting snow inside one’s goggles and having them fog up can spiral into a life-threatening situation.
See Emmons Winthrop Routebrief 2017
Review Weather Matrix
Trailhead logistics and parking
White River Campground
Parking: 46.9021, -121.6420
Maps and Navigation
Paper Maps
Limited use during whiteout
USGS Mt Rainier East
USGS Sunrise
Green Trails Mt Rainier East No. 270
GPS
MUST be downloaded for offline use
Schurman to Summit gaiagps.com/hike/361/mount-rainier-via-emmons-glacier-route
Trailhead to Summit caltopo.com/m/411L
Rainier - Emmons Glacier
2025 GPX Files - Public Google Drive
rainier_emmons.gpx
Emmons route overview and key milestones
Rainier/Emmons Glacier Route
Compared to Disappointment Cleaver option
Longer heavily glaciated route
Offers far more solitude and is remote wilderness
Requires complete, independent glacier travel and route-finding skills
Length: 17.4 miles
Elevation gain: 10,262 feet
Days: 2-3
Technical/Strenuous: 5/5
White River Campgroundis at 4,400 ft
Glacier Basin is around 5,900 feet
Camp Curtis is around 8,685 feet
Camp Schurman is around 9,500 feet
Mount Rainier's summit is at 14,410 feet
Day-by-day plan:
Itinerary options:
Trailhead to Schurman to Summit to Rest Day to Trailhead
Trailhead to Schurman to Rest Day to Summit to Trailhead
Seattle to Trailhead Drive 2 hours
Trailhead to Camp 6-8 hours, 5,100 feet
White River Campground to Glacier Basin: 3.5 miles, gaining 1,535 feet
Glacier Basin to Inter Glacier Base: 1 mile, gaining 1,065 feet
Inter Glacier to Camp Schurman (High Camp): 1.5-2 miles, gaining 2,500 feet
Camp to Summit 5-8 hours, 4,900 feet
Camp Schurman to Summit (Columbia Crest): ~3-3.5 miles, gaining 4,911 feet
Summit to Camp 3-4 hours
Camp to Trailhead 3-4 hours
Water resources and resupply considerations
Giardia is the main concern
Giardia has been found in water sources as high as 11,000 feet
Hoary Marmots thrive at elevations of up to 7,500 feet on Mount Rainier
Camp Schurman (9,500 feet) is above where marmots live, but can still be contaminated with human waste
Safe Approach: Boil or filter ALL water consumed
Boiling kills everything but takes a lot of fuel and time
Freezing of filters will permanently damage them
Do NOT boil filters - that also damages them
Risky Approach: just melt the snow and drink it
Giardia can present in 1 day, but usually takes a week or more
High Altitude
Many will risk drinking melt water at high altitude
Low risk of Giardia - and if contracted can be treated after you return home
Choose snow wisely as climber can also bring bacteria, viruses and other nasties
NOT an ideal approach for youth
Lower camps
Real risk of Giardia - water should be boiled or filtered
Compromised Approach: snowmelt and chemical tabs
Use fuel to melt water
Use chemical tabs to treat Bacteria and Viruses brough by other climbers
Ensure you double your treatment times for cold water (at least an hour)
This does NOT protect against Giardia
High Tech Approach: SteriPen
A SteriPen is supposed to treat Giardia, Bacteria and Viruses
Turnaround times and decision points
Always begin your summit bid with a firm "turnaround time" in mind, and immediately turn back if you experience any of the following factors:
10:00 AM Rule: Do not push higher if you are not safely on pace to summit and descend before the sun makes the snow unstable.
Deteriorating Weather: If severe winds, heavy precipitation, or zero-visibility "lenticular clouds" build up on the summit, turn around.
Equipment Failure or Group Fatigue: If any member of your rope team is injured, showing signs of severe exhaustion, or experiencing frostbite/hypothermia.
Unsafe Glacier Conditions: If rising daytime temperatures cause snow bridges to degrade or expose uncrossable crevasses.
Pacing and breaks
RMI and AAI now use a slower pace
Pace is slow, steady and, most importantly, consistent
Who all is participating in the activity
Maximum Group Size: 12 climbers per team
Affiliated groups must camp and travel at least one mile apart
Team strengths, experience levels, and considerations
Adult Lead
Medical Lead
Youth Lead
Gear distribution and shared equipment assignments
Poorly managing this leads to delays and gear left behind
Rope Teams
Team 1
Team 2
Team 3
Team 4
Transportation and carpool considerations
Up to 12 people plus gear
Communication plan and emergency contacts
Rocky Talkies x12?
inReach x2+
Weather forecast and contingencies
Trailhead
Steamboat Prow (by Camp Schurman)
Summit Mount Rainier
Terrain hazards and current conditions
Hidden crevasses
Thin snow bridges
Common, particularly around Camp Schurman and the upper Corridor
Steep icy slopes
Overhead hazards
Icefall
Collapsing seracs and shifting snow
Avalanches
Rockfall
Especially during the approach via the Inter Glacier and when moving near Little Tahoma
Unpredictable alpine weather
Whiteouts
Precipitation
High winds
Altitude sickness
Acclimation plan
Stagged ascent?
Acetazolamide?
Volcanic hazards
Eruption
Lahars
Mudflows
Unlikely
Sun protection
Sunglasses
Category 4 lenses (< 8-12% visible light) and side shields
Nose Shield
Optional and highly recommended
Sun Shirt
Ideally sun hoody
Pants
NOT shorts
Sunscreen (SPF 50)
Badger Adventure Sport Mineral Sunscreen (SPF 50)
All Good Sunscreen Butter (SPF 50+)
Thinksport Clear Zinc Sunscreen (SPF 50)
Sun Bum Mineral Face Stick (SPF 50)
Lip Balm (SPF 30+)
Aquaphor Lip Repair + Protect SPF 30
Sun Bum SPF 30 Lip Balm
Medical considerations within the group
Allergies
Asthma
Diabetes
Seizures
Emergency procedures
Group meals and cooking plan
Each member packs
2x freeze dried dinner
2x freeze dried breakfast or oatmeal
3x bags of daily lunch/snacks
Group Food
Cocoa
Coffee
Water treatment and water sources
Discuss Filter option
Ideal for filtering out nasties
Damaged if frozen
HIGH RISK where we are going
Chemical Tabs
Some benefit - bacteria and viruses
NO benefit for Giardia
Boiling everything
Will need extra fuel
Extra time to boil and cool
Boiling hot water will damage water bottles
Steripen
Require batteries and can be damaged
Most people don't have these
Clothes:
Fleece Hat
Balaclava/Bandana (winter/summer)
Sunglasses
Category 4 lenses (< 8-12% visible light) and side shields
Goggles (winter)
Dexterous Thinner Gloves
SHOWA 282-02 TEMRES PU Coated gloves
Insulated Warmer Gloves/Mittens
Hooded Base Layer
Softshell/Fleece Mid Layer
Waterproof Hooded Shell
Insulated Jacket w/ Hood
Softshell Pants
Waterproof Pants
Insulated Pants
2 x Socks (non-cotton)
Mountaineering Boots
Climbing Harness:
Harness
Belay & Rappel Device
ATC Guide or similar
Single Alpine Sling
Double Alpine Sling
Personal Anchor
Can also be a 2nd Double Alpine Sling
Pulley
Ideally Micro Traxion Pulley
Carabiners
1 triple locker
3x additional locking
3x nonlocking
2x Prussiks
5-6mm loops
one can be replaced with Petzl Tibloc
Cordelette
Personal Gear:
Backpack
Ice Axe w/ Leash
Crampons
Helmet
Headlamp (full charge)
Must fit on helmet
Picket
Ice Screw
Water Bottles
1 should be Nalgene style to allow for boiling water
Food
2x freeze dried dinner
2x freeze dried breakfast or oatmeal
3x bags of daily lunch/snacks
Multi-tool
GPS w/ Topo Map Loaded
Sleeping Pad
Sleeping Bag
Personal First Aid Kit
Prescriptions/Medications
Sunscreen
Sunscreen (SPF 50)
Badger Adventure Sport Mineral Sunscreen (SPF 50)
All Good Sunscreen Butter (SPF 50+)
Thinksport Clear Zinc Sunscreen (SPF 50)
Sun Bum Mineral Face Stick (SPF 50)
Lip Balm (SPF 30+)
Aquaphor Lip Repair + Protect SPF 30
Sun Bum SPF 30 Lip Balm
Hygiene kit
Toothbrush
Toothpaste
Foss is nice
Bluebag Kit
Blue Bag
Papertowels
Hand sanitizer
Group Gear:
Shovel
Stove, Lighter, Fuel
1 set for 2-3 people
Tent
1 per 3 people
Med Kit
Permits and reservations
Climber permit for Rainier here
Gear check and final readiness
Disappointment Cleaver Routebrief 2017
mountaineers.org - mount-rainier-disappointment-cleaver