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Crag Climbing
Crag Climbing
Our part of the world is blessed with many local crags to expore and conquer.
Smith Rock OR
Brithplace of Rock Climbing
Warning!
Crag Climbing is NOT feasible or safe for most Scout Units.
Climbing crags requires special training and equipment. Even with the right training and equipment, climbing has inherent risks. Without proper training and equipment, climbing crags places you at real risk of catastrophic injury.
We are lucky enough to have Adults and Scouts with special training and equipment. This has allowed us to climb many of the crags in Washington and Oregon State.
Do NOT Attempt Outdoor Climbing without properly Trained Instructors!
Do NOT Attempt Outdoor Climbing without properly Trained Instructors!
Sitting on top of Super Slab at Smith Rock
Climbing on Rock
Climbing on Rock
Climbing on Rock is different than climbing in the gym. Each rock wall is unique, having unpredictable holds, raw textures, and requires you to find your own routes instead of following colored plastic. The powerful and dynamic moves you might get away with in the gym are probably not ideal for rock. Falls on rock can also be much more consequential since the natural features you climb weren't artificially created with safety in mind.
There is also nothing quite like climbing on real rock. It feels real, because it is real. You are one with nature you can always find a wall or route that will be as satisfying as it is challenging. That said, Scouts and Adults will vary greatly in what they will be able to climb.
Climbing Grades
Climbing Grades
Choosing the proper Rock Grade is important. If you select climbs that are too easy, participants will feel cheated out of their day. If you choose grades that are too hard, your group won't accomplish much and some climbers will never climb again.
When choosing a grade for your group and individuals, understand that Gym Grades are NOT the same as Rock Grades. And for rock grades, Trad is different from Sport. Plus, some areas (Exit 38) are easy on the grading while others (Index and Smith Rock) are stiff.
Gym Grades
System
Usually color circuits
Ususally mapped loosely to V-grades for bouldering and YDS for top-rope/lead
Focus
Pure physical movement, strength, and technique on artificial holds
Characteristics
Often considered "soft" or inconsistent depending on the gym, with pre-determined clipping stances and no objective hazards like loose rock or weather
Sport Grades
System
Yosemite Decimal System (5.0 to 5.15+) with letter sub-grades (a, b, c, d) in the US, or the French numerical system outside the US
Focus
Pure physical difficulty of the rock sequence
Characteristics
Uses permanent bolts for protection
Grade assumes you can clip safely, though the runout or mental factor can still play a minor role
Trad (Traditional) Grades
System
In the US, trad uses the same YDS scale (5.x) as sport climbing, sometimes with commitment ratings (R/X)
In the UK, it uses a dual system combining an adjectival grade (overall seriousness, danger, and stamina) and a technical grade (hardest single move)
Focus
Physical difficulty plus the energy, time, and mental strength required to place removable gear (cams, nuts)
Characteristics
The exhaustion of placing gear and the psychological weight of a potential fall make it much more serious
Can feel "stiff" or sandbagged due to danger/gear
A 5.10 in the gym may be equivalent to a 5.8 on Sport or 5.6 Trad.
Ideally get your Scouts to climb at least 5.7s and 5.8s in the gym before heading out to a real rock wall.
Moderate Climbs 5.4-5.7
Moderate Climbs 5.4-5.7
This is the level used to teach basic climbing skill. Most anyone can climb at this level and is a good place to start for new climbers. These climbs are probably where you will want to start Scouts new to Rock Climbing.
There are a limited amount of places with a reasonable concentration of Moderate Climbs. Do a little research and make sure the crags you are choosing are acceptable for your group. See mountainproject.com 5.4-5.7 Washington State for a list of Moderate Crag Climbs.
Also see our page on Easy Crag Climbing Page for a list of Areas with higher concentrations of Moderate Climbs.
Intermediate Climbs 5.8-5.9
Intermediate Climbs 5.8-5.9
Climbers with a bit of experience or a lot of athleticism can climb 5.8 and 5.9s. These are not overly technical, but require a bit of strength and commitment. These climbs are for athletic Scouts or those with a bit of climbing experience.
Intermediate climbs are a blast and are still fun for experienced climbers. Reserve these climbs for special climbers or mix in with moderate climbs so that everyone can challenge themselves and enjoy your crag outing.
There's no shortage of Intermediate Climbs in Washington State. See: mountainproject.com (not all routes can be listed)
Advanced Climbs 5.10-5.11
Advanced Climbs 5.10-5.11
Advanced climbs are not for new climbers. These require strength AND skill. Some can master these within a year of climbing. Others will take years to get to this level, while others will climb for years and never get to this level. Climbers able to climb at this level, already know that they can these. You may have some Adult Lead and Scouts who can climb at this level and if so, you should help or run your outing.
These are often beyond the level of Scouting, unless you have a group that climbs a lot. For those able to climb at this level, Washington State, Oregon State and Canada have many excellent single and multipitch climbs for you.
So many great option from Squamish in Canada to Smith Rock in Oregon! See: mountainproject.com (not all routes can be listed)
Extreme Climbs 5.12+
Extreme Climbs 5.12+
These require both advanced Athleticism and Skill. These climbs are pretty much beyond what you can do in a Scouting Unit. That said, you might have a Scout or Adult able to lead and enjoy these climbs. For those who don't know what a 5.12 is, you should not attempt these climbs.
There are a surprising number of Extreme Climbs in Washington State. See: mountainproject.com
Mount Erie
Exit 32 (Little Si)
Exit 32 (Little Si)
Location: Near North Bend, about 30 minutes east of Seattle down I-90
Elevation: 1,185 ft
GPS: 47.49829, -121.75561
Best for: Sport climbing, particularly steep, overhanging routes.
Highlights:
It's a popular spot for strong climbers, especially on sunny afternoons and weekends
NOT ideal for beginners
The World Wall has a high concentration of difficult sport climbs from 5.8 to 5.14c
Some routes can be climbed in the rain
Exit 38 Far Side Trailhead
Exit 38 (past Exit 32)
Exit 38 (past Exit 32)
Location: Past North Bend, about 30-40 minutes east of Seattle down I-90
Elevation: 1,186 ft
GPS: 47.44102, -121.66842
Best for: beginning to intermediate climbers, aspiring lead climbers, and those looking for short 10–25 minute approaches
Highlights: The area offers highly concentrated single-pitch routes, predominantly ranging from 5.6 to 5.11.
The crags are broken into three distinct sub-areas, each best suited for specific climbing experiences:
- Deception Crags
Location:
Elevation: 1,469 ft
GPS: 47.43567, -121.66045
Accessible from the Iron Horse Trail, this area has routes for various skill levels
Write-off Rock is a good spot for beginners, while Nevermind Wall is known for harder routes
The most beginner-friendly zone
"Write-Off Rock" and "We Did Rock," which are highly praised by the Seattle climbing community for building "lead head" confidence in the 5.6–5.8 range
- The Far Side (Interstate Park)
Best for a mix of moderate slab climbing and steep, technical routes
Headlight Point offer fantastic friction and great 5.7–5.10 face climbing
- Mt. Washington Crags
Best for intermediate to advanced climbers
Rock quality is generally better as you gain elevation, offering plentiful climbs in the 5.9–5.12 range (e.g., Nevermind, Amazonia)
Exit 38 - Far Side
Index
Index Town Wall
Index Town Wall
Location: In Snohomish County, about a 1.5-hour drive from Seattle
Elevation: 1,281 ft
GPS: 47.82481, -121.56191
Best for: Serious climbers looking for granite climbing
Highlights:
A mix of sport and trad climbing, with routes ranging from single to multi-pitch
The hike to the routes offers views of the forested valley
The Feathers at Vantage
Vantage - aka Frenchman Coulee
Vantage - aka Frenchman Coulee
Location: East of the Columbia River, about a two-hour drive from Seattle
Elevation: 1,082 ft
GPS: 47.025, -119.96858
Best for: Both sport and trad climbing on columnar basalt
Highlights:
Weather is often acceptable here when other locations get rained out last minute
Popular areas like The Feathers and Sunshine Wall
The "Feathers" offers many short sport routes with minimal approach
"Sunshine Wall" has a mix of sport and trad
The area is best in the spring and fall, as summers can be very hot.
Adult Climb Leader setting up Toprope Anchor at Vantage
Mount Erie
Mount Erie
Mount Erie
Located on Fidalgo Island, about 1.5 hours north of Seattle
It's a great sunset crag with views of the Olympic Mountains
Offers both sport and trad routes on diorite rock
Leavenworth
Leavenworth
Leavenworth
Location: Approximately a 2.5-hour drive, this area offers granite climbing with options for bouldering, sport, and trad climbing.
Elevation: 1,167 ft
GPS: 47.5967, -120.65936
Year-Round Accessibility:
Sitting on the drier, eastern side of the Cascades, it offers an extended climbing season from March through October.
- Barney's Rubble Rock Climbing
Barney's Rubble is a beginner-friendly crag with a very short approach
Location:
Elevation: 1,730 ft
GPS: 47.54333, -120.73567
Unbeatable Convenience:
The crag has one of the shortest approach times in the area, taking only about 15 to 30 seconds or a 1-minute walk from your car
Great for Beginners & Warm-ups:
The majority of the routes range from 5.5 to 5.10, with lots of fun 5.6 and 5.8 cracks, as well as 5.7 to 5.10 face climbing
Frequently used by local guide services to teach foundational outdoor skills like knots, anchors, and rappelling
Bouldering Variations:
Across from the rope climbs lies a series of classic bouldering problems (often v0 to v2) with relatively flat, pine-needle landings
Popular problems include "The Rail" and "Fun House Stairway"
- Icicle Creek Canyon
Location:
Elevation: 1,355 ft
GPS: 47.5427, -120.71059
Exceptional Granite:
The rock is typically solid granite, featuring larger grains that offer excellent friction for slab climbing and crisp, distinct edges.
World-Class Granite Bouldering:
Often cited as the heart of Leavenworth bouldering, the canyon is packed with thousands of problems
From roadside highballs at Mad Meadows to remote test-pieces in the upper canyon, there is granite climbing for every skill level
Famous Multi-Pitch Trad:
The canyon features towering, clean granite walls like the Snow Creek Wall, which hosts iconic multi-pitch routes such as the 6-pitch 5.9 classic Outer Space
High Density & Variety:
Crags are scattered throughout the valley
Anything from steep crack climbing and sloper-heavy boulders to beginner-friendly top-roping and ice climbing in winter
Scenic Accessibility:
The climbing areas are set against the striking backdrop of the Central-East Cascades and Alpine Lakes Wilderness
Just minutes from downtown Leavenworth
- Tumwater Canyon
Location:
Elevation: 1,551 ft
GPS: 47.60098, -120.71325
The canyon is a mecca for rock climbers, famous for Yosemite-like granite formations
Landmarks like Castle Rock and Midnight Rock boast some of the oldest and most legendary climbing routes in the Pacific Northwest, established by pioneers like Fred Beckey
Tieton Crags
Tieton Crags
Tieton Crags
Location: Near Yakima, the Tieton River Canyon offers a collection of crags, primarily known for traditional climbing on columnar andesite rock
Elevation: 2,460 ft
GPS: 46.68424, -120.95834
Its location east of the Cascade Mountains means it's often sunny and dry, making it a good destination for climbing in warmer or shoulder seasons.
The climbing areas are spread out along the canyon and offer a variety of routes
Camping:
Dispersed camping is available in some areas, particularly near Wildcat Wall and along Wildcat Road.
You'll need to bring a blue bag or hold it until you visit the restrooms up the road
Some paid campgrounds are located along the river.
- Notable Tieton crags
- Royal Columns
Best for: Traditional crack climbing on solid columnar andesite.
Conditions: The "Orange Sunshine" section gets a lot of sun, making it a good choice for colder days.
Routes: Features longer routes, with many in the 5.10 range. The rock is hard and provides excellent surfaces for placing gear.
- Wildcat Creek Area
Best for: A mix of high-quality traditional and sport routes on unique columnar formations.
Conditions: North-facing, making it a good option for climbing during warmer months to avoid the sun.
Crags: Includes the imposing Wildcat Wall, known for excellent cracks, and the nearby Honeycomb Buttress, which offers slab and overhanging routes on horizontal columns.
- Jayhawk
Best for: Moderate sport routes, which are somewhat rare in the Tieton.
Conditions: A good option for sport climbers. The volcanic rock is rough but can be fragile and sharp in places.
Routes: Features yellow and orange overhangs with pockets and edges, with most routes being moderate.
Mazama
Mazama
Mazama
Methow Valley
A long drive, but worth if for a multi-pitch experience of a lifetime
Elevation: 2,123 ft
GPS: 48.59337, -120.40579
Thousands of vertical feet of well-bolted climbing on unique, volcanic greenstone
Multi-Pitch Sport Routes
Highest concentration of long multi-pitch sport routes in the United States
Camping:
Early Winters Campground
Klipchuck Campground
PLENTY of cabins for rent
- Single-Pitch Cragging & Bouldering
- Fun Rock
The area's main teaching and beginner-friendly crag
Features an abundance of well-protected, short sport climbs ranging from 5.6 to 5.10+
- The Matrix
A fantastic alternative to avoid the crowds at Fun Rock
Contains roughly 60 sport lines ranging from 5.6 to 5.11, making it perfect for spring and autumn sessions
- The Fire Wall
Located further up Lost River Road
Offers steeply featured, closely bolted lines like the classic Firestarter
- Lost River Bouldering
A growing collection of boulder problems can be found in the talus fields right below Goat Wall and along Lost River Road
Top of Prime Rib in Mazama
- Famed Multi-Pitch Sport Climbing
The crown jewel of Mazama climbing is Goat Wall, a massive complex of cliffs stretching right above Lost River Road. It is home to some of the longest ultra-classic moderate sport lines in North America
- Flyboys
An epic 18-pitch, 5.9 sport route
Climbing nearly 1,800 vertical feet
Offers massive exposure at a highly approachable grade
- Prime Rib
Highly popular 7-to-8 pitch 5.9 sport climb
Provides sustained, fun movement on excellent rock with a slightly steeper finish
- Earl Grey
5.9, 8 Pitches
Features a striking fifth pitch that forces a 20-foot horizontal traverse across a smooth slab before finding technical, crimpy vertical movements up to a hanging belay station
- Methow Inspiration Route
Classic, 5-pitch multi-pitch sport climbing route rated 5.9+
located on the massive Goat Wall
The oldest fully bolt-protected multi-pitch route on the wall
Offers high-quality climbing, sustained movements, and breathtaking views of the upper Methow Valley
- Sisyphus
5.11a or 5.10 A0, 9 Pitches
Nuch more sustained, technical option on Goat Wall
The true crux features thin, delicate slab climbing
The harder moves can easily be "aided" past by pulling on quickdraws, making it approachable for solid 5.10 climbers
- Restless Natives
5.11c
A less-traveled, highly scenic alternative on Goat Wall
For those looking to escape the crowds on the primary mega-routes
Smith Rock - The Birthplace of American Sport Climbing
Smith Rock
Smith Rock Oregon
Smith Rock Oregon
Location: Smith Rock State Park, located near Bend, Oregon
Elevation: 2,637 ft
GPS: 44.36779, -121.13906
It's a serious investment in driving time (12 hours there and back)
Incredible climbing experience for Spring Break - Summer too if you are ok with heat
Features nearly 2,000 routes on volcanic tuff and basalt
Famous for vertical, technical face climbing, small crimps, and sustained pockets, particularly on the iconic Monkey Face
Spring and fall are prime seasons, with top routes including 5 Gallon Buckets (5.8) and Vomit Launch (5.10a)
Spring may bring nasty afternoon rains
Many walls can be climbed the following morning after torential rains
Birthplace of U.S. Sport Climbing
Renowned as the birthplace of U.S. sport climbing
Established in 1986, the area is known for intense, technical sport routes
Technical Style
Expect "vertical crimp fests," small edges, and pocket pulling on volcanic tuff
Varied Routes
While known for hard sport, there are routes for all levels, including crack climbing and big walls up to 600 feet
Sandbagged Grades
Many routes are considered "sandbagged" (harder than the grade suggests), especially for those under 5.10
Some of the 5.6s at Smith may feel like a 5.8 elsewhere
Older routes often have widely spaced bolts
Redpoint Climbing, Coffee and Taps
Climibing shop located in Terrebonne with minimal climbing gear
Great for Pizza, coffee and playing Catan
Beer too if you aren't on a Scouting Outing
Lots of old school climbing gear on display
Camping:
Bivy Area
Walk-in-only campsite at the park (no reservations)
Skull Hollow Campground
9 miles away
Can pack in 4 cars in some sites
Tumalo State Park
22 miles away
Good for Car Camping
Nice Bathrooms with showers
Right next to Bend
Bend is home of Metolius Climbing Gear
- Notable Walls and Areas
- Morning Glory Wall
Popular for moderate to challenging sport climbing
Includes 5 Gallon Buckets (5.8)
Really fun climb if it isn't swamped
There is a 5.9 and 5.10 right next to it!
- The Dihedrals
A major area featuring a mix of grades
- Monkey Face
Iconic spire offering serious, long, multi-pitch routes
- Rope De Dope Block
Highly popular for beginners, with accessible top-roping
- Red Wall
Several classic mulipitch routes
- Northeast Face
Several classic mulipitch routes
- Classic Multipitch Climbs
5.6
Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches
Red Wall
Required double 70m ropes for rappel or you can walk off via a 5.7 gully climb which isn't as bad as it looks from a distance
5.6
Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches
Red Wall
Note: for a 5.6, this wall is pretty vertical and ends with a 20ft 4-inch crack
Not ideal for new climbers
2 4-inch cams are required for pro and for bump climbing the last bit, unless you have solid fist skills
5.7
Sport, 4 pitches
Red Wall
5.7
Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
Kiss of the Lepers Buttress
5.8 / A0
Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
Kiss of the Lepers Buttress
Other Monkey Face Climbs
5.7/ A0
Trad, Sport, Aid, 250 ft (76 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
5.11
Sport, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches, Grade III
All Monkey Face routes descend from an awesome overhanging rappel
5.8
Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
Northeast Face
sustained 5.8/5.9
Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
Northwest Face
5.9
Sport, 4 pitches
Red Wall
5.9
Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches
Northeast Face
5.9
Sport, 260 ft (79 m), 3 pitches
Picnic Lunch Wall
5.10a
Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
Morning Glory Wall
5.10a
Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches
Koala Rock
5.10b/c
Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
Northeast Face
5.10b or 5.8
Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 8 pitches, Grade II
Mud Pile
Smith Rock in Oregon
Morning Glory Wall with: 5 Gallon Bucket, The Outsiders, and Light on the Path
This is often Swamped on the weekend - be we got lucky on a day where it rained everywhere but here
The Peanut Wall to the left was also fun
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