This report below excerpts trail descriptions from the Mountaineers guide to Olympic Mountains Wilderness Trails. Sections that Troop 60 will hike are included with notes about the itinerary. Distances reflect total length of trail segments in the book, not sections the troop will hike.

HOH TRAIL - Length, 17.5 mi/28.2 km

[Day 1 starts here- to Olympus Guard Station camp]

The main route to Mount Olympus, this trail traverses the river bottoms to the mountain's base, then climbs steeply to the Blue Glacier, about halfway up the peak. Beyond the glacial moraine, the route to the top of Olympus lies over fields of ice and snow. The trail is popular during the summer, when one is never far from company. But the hiker who goes into the upper Hoh in November is not likely to see anyone else. The weather can then change quickly from benign Indian summer to a fierce winter gale, and when storms sweep up the valley, the wind whooshes through the trees. But this is the time to see the valley's wildlife-elk and deer, bear, raccoon, and snowshoe rabbit.

The trail begins at the Hoh Ranger Station and Visitor Center (578 ft/176 m) at the end of the Upper Hoh Road. After crossing tranquil Taft Creek, it meanders at a level grade through the multistoried rain forest. The ground is carpeted with ferns, mosses, lichens, liverworts, and thick growths of vine maple, huckleberry, red elder, and salmonberry. Above this jungle rise the hemlock, spruce, fir, and cedar. On the ground, the fallen logs are padded with cushions of moss and millions of baby trees. At intervals the gloomy stands of conifer are broken by patches of alder or by glades where bigleaf maple and vine maple, heavily bearded with selaginella and ferns, stand in grotesque postures. As one travels up the valley, the forest changes gradually until Douglas-fir becomes the dominant species, but spruce is common as far as Lewis Meadow.

Unlike the mountain trails, this river-bottom path is smooth and flat, not stony and rough. Little wayside camps, each with its own individual attractions, are located at various points along the route. Beyond a viewpoint where Mount Tom is visible (1.5 mi/2.4 km), the trail descends to the Hoh, then climbs a bit because the river washes against a bluff opposite Mount Tom Creek. Here the trail crosses two streams that tumble down the slope, and just beyond them the Mount Tom Creek Trail (2.9 mi/4.7 km; 660 ft/201 m) leads to the right. The trail then crosses Five Mile Slough, a side channel of the river, and traverses grassy alder bottoms, only to cross the slough again and return to the evergreen forest, which is now largely Douglas-fir.

Happy Four Shelter (5.6 mi/9.0 km; 800 ft/244 m), surrounded by large firs, stands on a bench above the river. Excellent campsites are located near the stream. Beyond this point, the trail provides periodic views of the Hoh River, at times going through bowers of vine maple that are attractive in the fall after the leaves have fallen. On sunny days, the moss formations, dripping from the recent rains, are illuminated and appear to be translucent.

The trail then descends and crosses Eight Mile Slough, another side channel of the river. The trail passes back over the slough, then climbs over a spur once blackened by the 1978 Hoh Lake Fire, which swept down to the river from the ridge above. The upper slopes in the direction of Hoh Lake contain many silver snags from the fire, but the surrounding forest and the greenery have made a complete recovery.

Leaving this previously scarred district, the trail returns to the river bottoms. The Olympus Ranger Station (9.2 mi/14.8 km; 948 ft/289 m) and a trail shelter stand at the edge of a grass covered meadow bordered by large spruce and cottonwood trees. Behind the rustic cabin, a clear, sparkling brook provides the camp with drinking water. The river flows by the meadow's south side, and from the gravel bars south of the trail one can look up the valley and see the Bailey Range as well as much of the area burned by the Hoh Lake Fire.

[Day 2 starts here – round-trip day hike to Blue Glacier]

Douglas-fir is dominant beyond the ranger station, but spruce, hemlock, and cedar are still present. Here the trail winds through a stand of ancient fir. Many of the trees are 8 to 10 feet in diameter, and the average height is about 275 feet. Occasionally, larger specimens are found trees that approach 12 feet in diameter and sometimes exceed 300 feet in height. The great shafts, with their ribbed bark, rise without limbs for 100 feet or more, like classic Doric columns, and breezes murmur softly in the crowns.

The route intersects the Hoh Lake Trail (9.8 mi/15.8 km; 1060 ft/323 m) and crosses Lake Creek, which usually flows underground at this point-at least during the summer. The route then skirts Lewis Meadow (10.6 mi/17.1 km; 1000 ft/305 m), where an old cabin once stood. This is a good campsite, but water must be obtained from the river. One can see the Bailey Range from the meadow.

The trail reaches the end of the flat bottomland at Stove Hill Camp (12.0 mi/19.3 km; 1080 ft/329 m), so called because many years ago a weary packer dumped a large woodstove beside the trail. The path formerly went directly up the steep hill, but it has since been rerouted and now switchbacks up, then crosses a couple of streams before descending to Hoh Bridge (13.3 mi/21.4 km; 1357 ft/414 m), which spans the river just above its confluence with Glacier Creek. Here the Hoh surges through a rock-walled gorge 150 feet deep, and turbulent Glacier Creek flows through a similar canyon. The slots were cut in the black sandstone of a glacial step. This is the third bridge at this site. The first one, built by Henry Huelsdonk about 1923, was replaced in the 1940s, and the present one dates from 1971. Delicious huckleberries grow in the vicinity, and hikers often stop here to have lunch. A tiny camp located beside a little stream about 200 yards beyond the bridge has two tent sites.

The trail now climbs the northern slopes of Mount Olympus via switchbacks that alternate with long, ascending traverses. The forest consists chiefly of stands of large Douglas-fir, with an undergrowth of vine maple and a ground cover of vanilla leaf and ferns, primarily sword and maidenhair. Queen cup bead lilies nestle amidst the greenery on the forest floor, their blue berries contrasting with the bright greens of the other plants. At Drip Rock, a huge monolith beside the trail, water drips from an overhanging cliff until midsummer.

Upon approaching Martins Creek, where the stream plunges over an escarpment, the trail crosses above the falls. The grade eases beyond this point, the trail rounds a bend, and Elk Lake comes into view (15.2 mi/24.5 km; 2558 ft/780 m). The shelter here is often occupied, but good campsites are located in the timber above the trail. The lake is comparatively warm, and swimmers paddle among the lily pads. As late as 1935 the lake had no fish, never having been stocked, but trout are present today. The lake marks the approximate upper limit of the Douglas-fir forest. Above it the slopes are covered with Alaska cedar, silver fir, and mountain hemlock.

The trail now climbs sharply through dense forest, crosses a few open glades-avalanche zones overgrown with slide alder and salmonberry thickets-where one can see the High Divide and Mount Carrie, then traverses around a cliff that overlooks Glacier Creek. The stream is 1400 feet below, and vantage points here provide views of the Snow Dome on Olympus, the White Glacier, and Glacier Creek. The former extent of the glacier is clearly indicated by the distinct boundary between the neighboring conifer forest and the deciduous growth that flourishes upon the old glacial bed. On hot days, when the ice melts rapidly, the creek clatters like a freight train.

The trail reaches a deep, rocky ravine, which is often filled with avalanched snow and where the rocks are unstable. The Park Service has installed a ladder and a rope to help hikers cross the ravine. The trail then meanders to Glacier Meadows (17.5 mi/28.2 km; 4200 ft/1280 m). The dense forest ends here, but subalpine trees are scattered up the mountainside and on the rocky moraine above. Two shelters are located near the lower edge of the meadows, and the standard, maintained trail ends at this point.

Beyond Glacier meadows a way trail continues up to the Blue Glacier. This primitive path, which is not maintained, goes by the summer ranger’s tent, winds briefly through the dense groves of subalpine fir and mountain hemlock, and again enters open country. The trail then forks (17.6 mi/28.3 km). Both paths lead to the glacier.

The right branch of the way trail climbs through brush and over large, rough boulders to a notch in the moraine just above the glacier’s terminus, then ascends Indian Rock (18.0 mi/29.0 km; 4700 ft/1433 m). This point overlooks the glacier, which is broken by numerous crevasses, but the peaks of Olympus are hidden by the Snow Dome. One can camp here, but water must be carried up from below. Early in the season one can, of course, find snow to melt.

The left branch of the trail is much longer-perhaps a mile or more. After crossing meadowland (where wildflowers grow profusely), it follows a ravine that is snow-filled until late summer. The moraine abuts a steep mountainside (18.4 mi/29.6 km; 5000 ft/1524 m). The terrain is deceiving; the distance farther than it appears. The transition here is abrupt; after having walked for miles through luxuriant rain forests, then a fringe of meadowland, one looks out upon a scene from the last ice age – a world of snow, ice, and barren rock. The moraine, a ridge of loosely consolidated boulders and dirt, rises abruptly from the glacier’s edge, and the view is one of the finest in the Olympics. Below is the sweep of the glacier; beyond are the peaks of Olympus, the Snow Dome, Glacier Pass, and the Blue Glacier icefall. Several primitive campsites are located adjacent to the moraine and are frequently used by hikers who wish to see the alpenglow at sunrise and sunset, or by climbers intent of getting an early start to scale the peak.

Although hikers not trained and experienced in the art of mountaineering will be sorely tempted to do so, they should refrain from venturing upon the glacier or attempting to climb Mount Olympus. The ascent is a glorious experience, but over the years a number of people have lost their lives on the peak- primarily due to inexperience and lack of proper equipment.

HOH LAKE TRAIL - Length: 6.4 mi/10.3 km

[Day 3 starts here –to Sol Duc Park camp]

Hoh Lake is a gem in the Olympic high country, but the trail leading to it requires a bit of strenuous hiking. The path begins 0.6 mi/1.0 km east of Olympus Ranger Station where it intersects the Hoh Trail at 1000 ft/305 m above sea level. The trail ascends a steep, forested spur to the lake, then traverses high, open slopes to Bogachiel Peak. The trail has thirty-seven switchbacks in all--thirty-one of them below the lake. In 1978 the largest forest fire in the history of the national park, caused by a lightning strike, blackened about a thousand acres of virgin timber near Hoh Lake, including much of that in the switchback section of this trail. Most of the trees were killed, but some survived on the perimeter of the burn.

On the Hoh bottomlands the trail has a gentle grade as it meanders among big firs and vine maple to Lake Creek (0.6 mi/1.0 km), which chatters madly as it rushes down toward its rendezvous with the Hoh. After paralleling the stream briefly, the trail climbs via long switchbacks shaded by dense stands of tall hemlock. At the fourth switchback it enters the once devastated fire area (1.0 mi/1.6 km; 1500 ft/457 m), where the trees are markedly smaller. The forest on this slope was primarily large, old-growth western hemlock with some Douglas-fir. Between this point and the twenty-fifth switchback on Broomstick Ridge, the trail switchbacks in and out of the burned area, and the contrast is noticeable. The once denuded landscape is now home to a new forest sprung to life again, and the slope is populated by a sea of newly growing timber. On Broomstick Ridge where dense stands of small, slender trees were killed, the fire damage is almost imperceptible.

Upon attaining the crest of the spur (3.5 mi/5.6 km; 3500 ft/1067 m), the grade eases, the burned district is left behind, and the trail climbs through stands of tall silver fir. The path then leaves the ridge and crosses several streams as it goes through a wet area. The country now becomes a mix of meadows and groves of subalpine trees-primarily silver fir, mountain hemlock, and Alaska cedar-and the slopes above and to the west of Hoh Lake come into view. Here islands of burned trees are intermingled with the living ones. This was not the main area swept by the fire, but close to the perimeter, and the patches have created strikingly beautiful silver forests of fire-killed trees.

The path then comes out into a meadow that has the odd name C. B. Flats (4.8 mi/7.7 km; 4050 ft/1234 m). This grassy area is surrounded by subalpine forest and strewn with sandstone boulders. Mount Olympus is visible from this point, and at the meadow's far edge Lake Creek thunders down the mountainside. The trail crosses the stream below two waterfalls, then switchbacks up to Hoh Lake, the creek's source (5.2 mi/8.4 km; 4500 ft/1372 m).

This deep, orbicular lake occupies a dish-shaped glacial cirque. The slopes are covered with heather and clusters of subalpine firs, and herds of elk are often observed here. Mount Olympus and Mount Tom loom high above the Hoh Valley to the south. The lake contains Eastern brook and rainbow trout, but it often remains frozen until mid-July, and sometimes well into August. When the snow melts, rolling meadows appear, crisscrossed with elk trails and colorful with beargrass and lupine. On the northern, shaded sides of the ridges, the snowdrifts remain until late in the season, long after the south-facing slopes are covered with mountain flowers.

Sunrises and sunsets are memorable when viewed from Hoh Lake. Mount Olympus takes on a soft, velvet white in the morning, but it is more colorful at sunset when the alpenglow reflects various to es of pink, gold, and purple. After the sun has disappeared behind the western ridges, the summit snows are still bathed in bright sunlight, but the hemlocks near the lake form dark silhouettes. Fog settles heavily here, and it is often misty and cold-especially when the lake is still frozen.

Camping at Hoh Lake and C. B. Flats is available by reservation-contact the Wilderness Information Center. Although the only places burned near the lake were two knolls covered with subalpine fir, the heavy use by backpackers over the years, aggravated by the effects of the firefighters’ camps, has severely damaged the subalpine plant life. Alternate sites for camping are available on the High Divide.

Beyond Hoh Lake the trail climbs toward the High Divide, switchbacking up through subalpine country to a promontory on the eastern rim of the cirque. Here the view of the upper Hoh Valley, the Bailey Range, and Mount Olympus is spectacular. When the mountains are still blanketed with heavy snow in early summer, the contrast with the dark green forests and the river is marked.

The trail then contours steep slopes overlooking the Hoh and ends just below the summit of Bogachiel Peak, where it intersects the High Divide Trail and the Bogachiel Trail (6.4 mi/ 10.3 km; 5200 ft/1585 m).

HIGH DIVIDE TRAIL - Length: 6.5 mi/10.5 km

This trail provides the hiker with vistas that are among the best in the Olympics. The route is noted for its succession of spectacular views of Mount Olympus, the Bailey Range, and the valleys of the Bogachiel, Hoh, and Sol Duc. The sunrises and sunsets observed from vantage points along the way are outstanding. During the night fog frequently forms in the valleys, and sometimes it cloaks the ridges and peaks in heavy mist. The trail is popular and regularly traveled. During the summer people are constantly coming and going in both directions, especially on the High Divide section. But in late fall, or when the weather is stormy, the hiker can experience solitude.

The route follows the High Divide, then skirts the Bailey Range at the 5000 ft/1524 m level, ending abruptly on the south side of Cat Peak. The High Divide forms the watershed between the Hoh and Sol Duc; and the Bailey Range, between the Hoh and Elwha. The ridge forming the High Divide extends from Bogachiel Peak to the head of Cat Creek, a tributary of the Elwha. The elevation averages about 5000 ft/1524 m. Snow piles up to great depths here during the winter, particularly on the northern slopes, which extend down into Seven Lakes Basin and Sol Duc Park. The snowfall on the Bailey Range is probably greater still.

The trail begins on the south side of Bogachiel Peak at an intersection (5200 ft/1585 m) with the Hoh Lake Trail and the Bogachiel Trail. This point overlooks the Hoh Valley, Mount Olympus, and the Bailey Range. One can also look down the upper Bogachiel from this gap in the ridge. The path then traverses the sidehill below the summit to a junction with a spur (0.1 mi/0.2 km) that climbs about 200 yards to the top of Bogachiel Peak, where a fire lookout cabin once stood (5474 ft/1668 m).

The side trip to the summit is a must for every hiker. The panorama includes virtually the entire northwest corner of the peninsula. The Bogachiel River winds westward in sweeping curves toward the foothills. The distant valley, clothed with virgin forest, fades into a purplish haze, but on clear days the Pacific Ocean is sometimes discernible as a band of blue. The view to the north includes Seven Lakes Basin, while directly east are the slopes of the High Divide and, beyond them, the Bailey Range. Southward, across the deep Hoh Valley, stands Mount Olympus, a massive pile of rock, snow, and ice.

Beyond Bogachiel Peak the trail goes up and down as it follows the High Divide, often utilizing the gentle swales and humps of ridgetop depressions. The slopes fall away steeply on the timbered south side to the Hoh, which contrasts markedly with the meadowland on the north side facing the Sol Duc. Olympus and the Bailey Range are almost always in full view-the latter a long, curving chain of peaks that parallels the upper Hoh. The glacier-scoured Seven Lakes Basin lies north of the divide, and one looks down upon its many lakes-patches of deep blue, varied in shape, in a pastel landscape. Elk frequent this region during the summer and autumn, often congregating near the pools or on the snowfields. Occasionally bears are observed. Wildflowers are everywhere-avalanche lilies, lupine, common bistort, bluebells, columbine, monkey flowers, daisies, gentians, beargrass, and both red and white mountain-heather.

A small campsite is located in the broad, grassy saddle (0.9 mi/1.4 km; 5000 ft/1524 m) at the eastern base of Bogachiel Peak, but one must go down into the basin to obtain water.

Beyond this point the trail climbs up and down as it follows the divide, passing scree slopes and meadows on the left, stands of subalpine fir and mountain hemlock on the right. The path then crosses the southern end of an abutting ridge that extends northward between Seven Lakes Basin and Sol Duc Park and descends to a junction with the Sol Duc Trail (2.1 mi/3.4 km; 5050 ft/ 1539 m) above Heart Lake. The trail now overlooks the beautiful uplands of Sol Duc Park, the meadow country at the head of the Sol Duc River, then climbs over the south end of Cat Creek Ridge (3.0 mi/4.8 km; 5100 ft/1554 m) where the ridge abuts the High Divide. Here one can see Mount Appleton and Appleton Pass.

SOL DUC TRAIL - Length: 8.5 mi/13.7 km

The Sol Duc Trail parallels the river to Bridge Creek, then follows that stream to Sol Duc Park and the High Divide, where the path joins the High Divide-Bailey Range Trail.

[This section reads backwards – up from Sol Duc valley, excerpted here for the relevant section to our high adventure hike, rearranged in order of our itinerary]

With each upward step the hiker's view of the Sol Duc Valley becomes more impressive. Heart Lake (8.1 mi/13.0 km; 4750 ft/1448 m), a little tarn shaped like a valentine, lies on a bench in the upper part of Sol Duc Park, where it mirrors the meadows and subalpine trees. The greenish lake is the source of Bridge Creek. Above the lake, the trail ascends to the High Divide and a junction with the High Divide-Bailey Range Trail (8.5 mi/13.7 km; 5050 ft/1539 m).

Sol Duc Park lies on the northern slope of the High Divide between Seven Lakes Basin and Cat Creek Basin. The southern or Hoh River side of the divide is timbered to the ridgetop, but the shaded northern slopes that make up Sol Duc Park are open country because snowdrifts last until late summer and thus keep the timberline about a thousand feet lower. One of the finest examples of subalpine country in the Olympics, this area makes an excellent base camp for trips to the nearby Bailey Range. During the winter, Sol Duc Park is covered by deep snow. On clear days, when haze is not pronounced, the distant Pacific is visible as a bluish band above scattered trees that fade away on the slopes to the northwest. Cat Creek Ridge looms over Sol Duc Park on the east; Mount Olympus and the Bailey Range rise to the south and east, with the Hoh Valley lying between Olympus and the High Divide.

Many years ago, advocates of winter sports proposed the development of a ski resort in Sol Duc Park, complete with lodge and mechanical lifts, as well as extension of the road up the valley. Such development would have destroyed the superlative wilderness character of this part of the Olympics. However, the death knell was given to the project by a combination of factors-bad winter weather, poor snow for skiing, and lack of population within reasonable distance. Moreover, it would have been incompatible with the preservation of an undisturbed landscape in a national park.

[Day 4 starts here – to Boulder Lake camp]

The route intersects the Appleton Pass Trail (5.0 mi/8.0 km; 3100 ft/ 945 m) in a stand of Douglas-fir and hemlock so dense that almost nothing grows upon the forest floor. The trail then climbs to Upper Sol Duc Camp (5.3 mi/8.5 km; 3150 ft/960 m). At this point, one should not be misled by a path that leads down to the river's edge. A trail shelter formerly stood upon the opposite bank, but both the shelter and the bridge have long since disappeared. The trail does not cross the Sol Duc here but veers left and goes uphill, climbing above the river as it traverses through forests of Alaska cedar and silver fir. The trail then crosses the Sol Duc over a bridge below the confluence of the river and Bridge Creek (5.5 mi/8.9 km; 3300 ft/1006 m). At this point the path leaves the river, turns south, and follows Bridge Creek, then crosses the stream (6.5 mi/10.5 km; 3800 ft/1158 m). The route now leaves the dense forest and enters subalpine country. After climbing a bit, the trail enters the high, open country of Sol Duc Park, where rolling meadowland sweeps above a silver forest to the High Divide. Bridge Creek Camp (7.7 mi/12.4 km; 4500 ft/1372 m) was formerly the site of Heart Lake Shelter.

APPLETON PASS TRAIL - Length: 7.8 mi/12.6 km

This route links Olympic Hot Springs with the Sol Duc Trail. The pass lies on the divide between the Sol Duc and Elwha watersheds, and the trail follows the valley of Boulder Creek. Obtaining water is not a problem because streams cross the trail at frequent intervals.

[This section reads backwards – up from Boulder Creek Section of Olympic Hot Springs Road, excerpted here for the section relevant to our hike, but is NOT rearranged in order of our itinerary]

The trail winds through the shaded coolness of Douglas-fir and western hemlock to a junction with the Boulder Lake Trail (0.7 mi/1.2 km; 2350 ft/716 m). The ground beneath the trees is open in many places, with skunk cabbage growing in the swampy spots. About half mile beyond this junction, the forest changes abruptly, and silver fir competes with the other species. The ground cover consists of huckleberry and vanilla leaf, with devil’s club near the streams.

After crossing the North Fork of Boulder Creek, the trail contours near the picturesque falls in the South Fork. At this point (1.5 mi/ 2.4 km), a side path descends to Lower Boulder Creek Falls, where the South Fork leaps about 30 feet into a large bowl creating a series of cascades. This spot is cool on the hottest days, and the windblown spray is refreshing. A small campsite is located nearby.

The trail now begins to climb [DESCEND, in our itinerary], switchbacking as it parallels the South Fork. A second side path (1.7 mi/2.7 km) leads to Upper Boulder Creek Falls and another little campsite. The falls are narrower than the ones below, and it is more difficult to obtain a good view. The creek cascades 60 feet, first jumping 30 feet to a ledge, then angling back to the right to more or less form a crescent.

The trail crosses the South Fork, and the murmuring of little brooks can be heard around bends in the path. At one point the trail overlooks an avalanche track, where slides have swept down the flanks of Mt. Appleton. The path makes a long ascending traverse and crosses several avalanche tracks as it climbs through subalpine forest and switchbacks up [DOWN] through a jungle of slide alder. The creek, not far below, chatters constantly.

Breaking out into open country, the now stony trail enters a large meadow where big boulders are strewn around. Marmots sit up on rocks and stare at the bipeds who dare to intrude on their domain. A huge rock near the meadow’s edge is a favorite perch, probably because it is high and offers a good lookout. Wildflowers are abundant in midsummer. The display features azalea, Sitka valerian, broadleaf arnica, common bistort, false hellebore, lupine, spiraea, paintbrush, and avalanche lily. Huckleberry, mountain ash, slide alder, and willow are the predominant bushy plants.

At the crossing of a side stream at about 3850 ft/117.3 m is the last campsite in this section of the high country allowed with a fire ring. (Fires are usually not allowed above 2300 ft/ 701 m; this is an exception.) The trail switchbacks a couple of times, then crosses the South Fork of Boulder Creek twice. Beyond this point the switchbacks end for a while before the trail makes a half dozen as it climbs to a basin. Tarn Camp is located here, beside a little pond which often disappears in late summer.

The path now makes nine short, steep switchbacks as it climbs to [DESCENDS FROM] Appleton Pass (5.3 mi/8.6 km; 5050 ft/1539 m), the low point in the divide between Boulder Creek and the Sol Duc River. The Cat Creek Way Trail begins here, and several campsites with outstanding high-country views are located near the pass. Mount Appleton looms to the north. One can obtain water from Oyster Lake or a nearby stream.

Beyond Appleton Pass the trail descends [CLIMBS] sharply, via switchbacks and long traverses, to [FROM] the Sol Duc River. The forest consists of subalpine fir and mountain hemlock at the higher elevations; otherwise, it is mostly western hemlock, with scattered Douglas-fir, western white pine, Alaska cedar, and silver fir.

Upon leaving the pass, the route traverses a mixture of heather meadows and stands of subalpine firs, with views across the upper Sol Duc to Sol Duc Park and the High Divide. Mount Olympus and Mount Tom rise above the latter. Flowers include spiraea, Columbia lily, paintbrush, beargrass, and penstemons. As the trail switchbacks down the slope, the forest becomes thicker, but windows appear now and then where one can see Mount Olympus.

Below the meadowland, the trail goes by two potholes (6.0 mi/9.7 km; 4600 ft/1402 m). The stagnant tarns are unattractive, and although the water can be used, it should be boiled. Beargrass, lupine, and huckleberry are abundant in this area. So, too, are mosquitoes.

About a half mile beyond the potholes the views disappear, but the sound of the Sol Duc River can be heard coming up from below. As the trail switchbacks down the steep slope, the undergrowth becomes sparse. The trail then traverses a slide zone grown up with bracken fern and vine maple and crosses Rocky Creek at the far end (7.4 mi/11.9 km; 3400 ft/1036 m). This is the only source of water between the pass and the river. Hikers going up the trail should fill their water bottles here.

As the trail descends, one can see and hear the creek, which flows noisily below on the left. After crossing a slide, where the rocks are covered with lichen, the trail ends at a junction with the Sol Duc Trail (7.8 mi/12.6 km; 3100 ft/ 945 m) in a forest of tall conifers

BOULDER LAKE TRAIL - Length: 2.8 mi/4.5 km

The trail begins at 2400 ft/732 m on the Appleton Pass Trail, 0.7 mi/1.1 km west of Boulder Creek Campground. The path does not switchback but makes a long, ascending traverse as it climbs steadily above the North Fork of Boulder Creek through dense stands of Douglas-fir. The stream is hidden in its canyon, but its booming breaks the stillness. As the trail ascends, the forest changes to western hemlock, and little openings exhibit displays of beargrass during the summer. Here one has glimpses of Mount Appleton across the valley.

Halfway Creek (1.1 mi/1.8 km; 3200 ft/975 m) marks the midpoint between the campground and Boulder Lake, not the halfway point on this trail.

After crossing a rockslide where devil's club and vine maple flourish, the trail goes through stands of silver fir, Alaska cedar, and western hemlock. Here the route traverses a flood slide (an area of finely broken shale, boulders, gravel, and detritus that has slid among the trees), then enters a grove of Alaska cedar, where many trees are adorned with burls. An oddity - five large trunks rising from a single root system - stands beside the trail at one point.

Two creeks that cascade down this slope become raging torrents on hot days when the snowpack is melting. After crossing them, the route flattens at the canyon's head and enters the subalpine forest and meadow country. The ground is swampy. Marsh marigolds, daisies, and asters bloom among the heather, adding touches of color. Huckleberry bushes grow everywhere, clustering thickly around the subalpine firs.

Beyond the Happy Lake Ridge Trail junction (2.7 mi/4.3 km), the trail turns south, tops a small rise, and ends at Boulder Lake (2.8 mi/4.5 km; 4350 ft/1326 m). Cupped on the northeast side of Boulder Peak, the more or less round lake is almost encircled by a forested ridge, with cliffs and snowfields to the southwest. Along the lake's north side, where a camp is located, the land is fairly level, and a peninsula juts into the water. The lake is the source of the North Fork of Boulder Creek and is stocked with Eastern brook and rainbow trout.

Boulder Peak rises above the ridge to the southwest. The walk to the summit (5600 ft/1707 m) is steep but not difficult and rewards the hiker with views in all directions. Mount Appleton stands nearby to the south. A dozen miles in the distance, Mount Olympus rises to the right of the northern spurs of the Bailey Range, which are topped by Mount Carrie. Heavily forested ridges and valleys extend westward, with the ocean in the distance. The Strait of Juan de Fuca is to the north. Beyond the timbered ridges to the east, the snow-flecked peaks of the eastern Olympics extend to the horizon. Directly below lie the Three Horse Lakes. The rounded upper lake occupies a dish-shaped cirque. The triangular lower one is located on a timbered bench.

HAPPY LAKE RIDGE TRAIL - Length: 9.5 mi/15.3 km

[Day 5 starts here – to Barnes Creek via Aurora Divide]

Happy Lake Ridge Trail begins on the Boulder Creek section of the Olympic Hot Springs Road,8.6mi/13.8 km from US 101, and climbs to Happy Lake Ridge. The path follows the divide in a westerly direction, ending near Boulder Lake. The country traversed is somewhat drier than one would expect, probably because it is sheltered by the Bailey Range from the full effect of winter storms.

[This section reads backwards – up from Boulder Creek Section of Olympic Hot Springs Road, excerpted here for the section relevant to our hike, but is NOT rearranged in order of our itinerary]

The route intersects the Aurora Divide Trail (7.0 mi/11.3 km; 5000 ft/1524 m), where the northern end of Crystal Ridge joins Happy Lake Ridge. Beyond this junction the trail abandons its namesake ridge and follows the northern spur of Crystal Ridge, which wraps around the headwaters of Crystal Creek like a horseshoe. (The long-abandoned Crystal Ridge Trail ascends the ridge directly from the Boulder Creek Campground near Olympic Hot Springs.) The route goes through fairly open country, then crosses to the south side of the crest, where it enters still another silver forest.

As the trail follows Crystal Ridge, it alternately traverses meadowland and dense subalpine forest. Here one often hears the wind murmuring in the trees. The view to the east looks down the valley of Boulder Creek.

Like an airplane coming in for a landing, the trail now begins a long, steady descent toward Boulder Lake, which sparkles in the distance. The trail ends at a junction (9.5 mi/15.3 km; 4400 ft/1341 m) with the Boulder Lake Trail, just north of the lake.

AURORA DIVIDE TRAIL - Length: 5-4 mi/8.7 km

This trail connects a lowland path, the Barnes Creek Trail, with two upland ones, the Aurora Ridge Trail and the Happy Lake Ridge Trail. The path begins 4.0 mi/6.4 km up the Barnes Creek Trail from Lake Crescent, at 1500 ft/457 m elevation.

[This section reads backwards – up from Barnes Creek, excerpted here for the section relevant to our hike, but is NOT rearranged in order of our itinerary]

The route parallels an unnamed creek that flows in a deep ravine with the trail at first ascending [DESCENDING] through stands of Douglas-fir and western hemlock having little or no undergrowth. The forest is quiet, the silence broken now and then by the hoarse croaking of ravens. One can see, across the ravine to the left, where avalanches have knocked down a number of trees.

The climb is gradual, but steady, via long switchbacks, and as elevation is gained, Douglas-fir is replaced by silver fir. Near the ridge crest the terrain becomes less precipitous, and dense undergrowth is present.

As it switchbacks upward [DOWNWARD], the trail crosses an avalanche track several times. The slide zone is covered with thick growths of salmonberry, willow, huckleberry, devils club, and baneberry. The trail then climbs to [DESCENDS FROM] a campsite (3.2 mi/5.0 km; 4200 ft/1280 m) where water is available. The forest is thinner here, and huckleberry bushes grow beneath the trees. The path goes by two ponds, then meanders through moss-covered boulders and crosses the divide-Aurora Ridge or Happy Lake Ridge, whichever one chooses to call it. (This is near the indefinite point where one ridge becomes the other.) The trail then intersects the Aurora Ridge Trail (3.6 mi/5.8 km; 4750 ft/1448 m).

The trail climbs up and down as it follows Happy Lake Ridge, either traversing along the crest or on one side or the other. Here it alternates between forest and meadowland. The trees consist of subalpine fir, mountain hemlock, and silver fir; the wildflowers include lupines, gentians, mountain azalea, daisies, and thistles. Hikers should keep alert because the tread deteriorates and often disappears in the meadows. One should watch for signs of the trail or note on the tree trunks bits of orange-colored tape which indicate the way.

On this exposed divide, one can hear the wind in the trees - murmuring softly on quiet summer days, howling during wild autumn storms. At one point the trail dips a bit, and one can see, to the left, the steep pyramid of Lizard Head Peak (5370 ft/1637 m). The trail then enters a dense stand of subalpine fir. The tall trunks rise to a considerable height without limbs, and the crowns are festooned with lichens.

Eventually the trail comes out onto a slope where the sound of a stream-a tributary of the North Fork Sol Duc rises faintly from below. The path continues down the ridge, and one can look to the right into the headwaters of the North Fork Sol Duc or to the left across the Barnes Creek watershed and the valley of Lizard Head Creek. During late September, Boletus edulis, the king bolete, a prized mushroom, can sometimes be gathered here.

Again, the trail follows the narrow spine, at times through stands of subalpine fir and mountain hemlock, where gentians bloom beneath the contorted trees. Then, coming out into another meadow, the trail ends at a junction with the Happy Lake Ridge Trail (5.4 mi/8.7 km; 5020 ft/1530 m), where the latter departs its namesake ridge to follow an unnamed divide to Boulder Lake. This is not only confusing but also illogical, but the trails in the Olympics do not always follow a logical course.

BARNES CREEK TRAIL - Limited maintenance, Length: 9.5 mi/ 15.3 km

The Barnes Creek Trail begins at the Storm King Ranger Station and Visitor Center on the delta of Barnes Creek, close to the south shore of Lake Crescent.

[This section reads backwards – up Barnes Creek from US101, NOT rearranged in order of our itinerary]

This trail follows the stream almost 10 mi/16 km to its headwaters on Baldy Ridge. The path starts along the shore of Lake Crescent, passing the boat ramp and the ranger station, then turns southwest and crosses underneath US 101 to then parallel US 101 for 0.4 mi/0.6 km. At this point, the trail intersects with the Lake Crescent Lodge Nature Trail. This valley is especially beautiful during the fall when the enormous leaves of the maples and devil's clubs turn golden yellow.

Beyond junctions with the Mount Storm King Trail (0.5 mi/0.8 km) and the Marymere Falls Trail (0.7 mi./1.1 km), the way narrows, becoming a typical Olympic footpath about 18 inches wide. The route parallels Barnes Creek through a narrow valley where the forest is primarily Douglas-fir and western hemlock, with a ground cover of ferns. Here the chatter of the stream is always present. During the first few miles, the undergrowth is luxuriant, and the path crosses numerous little brooks; thus, water is always available.

The trail is not level; it goes up and down, but ascends more than it descends, crossing Barnes Creek on a foot log at 1.3 mi./2.1 km. The path then crosses a large tributary. Here it penetrates dense thickets of salmonberry and devil’s club.

The trail now begins to switchback up [DOWN] the mountain, and the creek roars lustily far below. Upon reaching a point opposite a slope where slides have occurred, the trail veers away from Barnes Creek, then levels out as it approaches Dismal Draw Camp (3.5 mi/5.6 km; 1700 ft/518 m), where a little brook flows down a dark and gloomy defile.

Despite its name, this is a pleasant camp. The silence of the deep woods is broken by the subdued murmur of the brook, the croaking of ravens, and the wind whispering in the hemlocks and cedars. The campsite is a tiny shelf below the trail, barely large enough for two small tents.

As it ascends [DESCENDS] Dismal Draw, which is almost always in the shade, the trail crosses the brook and returns to the Barnes Creek side of the spur. Once again, the stream can be heard, but it is muffled now and sounds like the clatter of a distant train. The forest is so dense that virtually nothing grows upon the ground except moss. The trees are small, the stands cluttered with dead broomsticks - saplings that perished in the struggle for sunlight. Scattered among them are many snags and a few large firs that were blackened near the ground by the fire which destroyed the virgin timber.

The trail climbs [DESCENDS] steadily as it makes a long traverse - where Mount Storm King is visible through the trees - then crosses an avalanche path. Barnes Creek is now hidden in the depths of its canyon, but the hiker can look across and up the valley to Baldy Ridge. Upon entering the forest again, the trail comes to a junction with the Aurora Divide Trail (4.0 mi/6.4 km; 2200 ft/671 m). Beyond this stream the forest is mostly western hemlock, but as the trail approaches Happy Lake Creek, which flows in a deep ravine, the route again goes through stands of Douglas-fir. The trail crosses the creek at the site of an old camp (6.8 mi/10.9 km; 2700 ft/ 823 m). Four logs arranged in a square mark the spot where a cabin once stood.

Exit to Storm King Parking Lot:

Driving There:

Map from Kingston Ferry Terminal: https://goo.gl/maps/Bvmv2G9bVfrSzr1A8 (Distance to Storm King Parking Lot: 81.1 miles – estimated 1:44; Storm King to Hoh Parking Lot: 67.6 miles – estimated 1:29)

First day hike = 9.7 miles, applying Naismuth’s Rule: ~3:20 hiking – call it 5:00 to be safe. So need to be at trailhead by 2pm at latest, better at noon, in order to get to camp at reasonable time. Thus, working backward, back off 3:30 to 4 hours to get Kingston arrival of 8 or 8:30. Kingston crossing time approx.. 30 minutes, so ferry not later than 7:30-8:00.

There is a 7:10 ferry and a 7:55 ferry. Aim for the 7:10, and if you miss it the 7:55 will work. Figure to meet at St. Pius at 6:00 am, head to ferry at 6:30.